Converting from Siphon To Pressure Pot with Questions
Moderators: Brad Walker, Tony Smith
Converting from Siphon To Pressure Pot with Questions
This evening I converted my Skatt cabinet with the built in Siphon gun to a pressure pot that I bought from Harbor Freight. The whole job was about 2 hours but I have questions. First the control valve for the nozzle is a knife type (prolly not the right term) instead of a gun type like the siphon system. Do they make gun types? Sources? Or do they make foot pedals that control the valve/sand rate? Second, I had to hook the nozzle to the pressure pot with rubber hose and cable clamps (thats what came with the unit). Can I replace these with quick disconnects or is their something magical about the rubber hose (like handling the abrasive). And last could I get some suggested approach to determining the initial settings for say zapping irid? My simple "does it work" test made me wish I had made this move months ago! And Tony, your advise about buying the best compressor you can afford was right on the mark! Thanks in advance for any and all help.
Ron Bell
Black Creek Glass
Black Creek Glass
Ron, you can get any kind of nozzle/foot switch hardware you like, I've seen many different configurations. The rubber hose/clamp situation is the norm, but there is probably other options. I don't have any suppliers, but someone will. As for the pressure for blasting off irid, it depends on your touch. I do it at 50 lbs. but we have students do it from 20-30 lbs.
Brock
Brock
My memory is so good, I can't remember the last time I forgot something . . .
-
- Posts: 1037
- Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2003 5:59 pm
- Location: Massachusetts, USA
- Contact:
Ron,
I blast my irid and dichroic at about 20 psi, and even for carving, rarely exceed 35 psi. Like Brock said, it depends on your touch, but start low and work your way up, otherwise you'll find yourself digging troughs in the glass until you develop that touch.
Initial settings for your pressure pot should be: air inlet valve full open, choke valve (the one that has a hose going to the bottom of the pressure pot) should be wide open, and the mixing valve at the bottom of the pressure pot should be open about half way.
For hose, buy high quality rubber air hose rated at 300 psi. It'll last for a long, long time. If you can find it, get Goodyear Horizon air hose. I think it's available from Grainger but is definitely available from McMaster-Carr. Hose clamps work well, just don't overtighten them.
Marty already told you about the footswitch which can be had from Glastar for about $150. I think Rayzist also sells one, but have never seen or used it. Both units are on/off only and don't control flow.
Northern Tool sells a neat pinch valve type nozzle (item #11303) that works well and is realtively cheap. I don't know how long it will last though. The only gun that I've seen is from Bob Pickard and is called the Pab-blaster http://www.pabblaster.com. It is designed to vary the abrasive flow. Jackie Beckman has one and may be able to provide guidance about how useful it is... I've heard great things about it, but have never used one.
Hope this helps
Tony
I blast my irid and dichroic at about 20 psi, and even for carving, rarely exceed 35 psi. Like Brock said, it depends on your touch, but start low and work your way up, otherwise you'll find yourself digging troughs in the glass until you develop that touch.
Initial settings for your pressure pot should be: air inlet valve full open, choke valve (the one that has a hose going to the bottom of the pressure pot) should be wide open, and the mixing valve at the bottom of the pressure pot should be open about half way.
For hose, buy high quality rubber air hose rated at 300 psi. It'll last for a long, long time. If you can find it, get Goodyear Horizon air hose. I think it's available from Grainger but is definitely available from McMaster-Carr. Hose clamps work well, just don't overtighten them.
Marty already told you about the footswitch which can be had from Glastar for about $150. I think Rayzist also sells one, but have never seen or used it. Both units are on/off only and don't control flow.
Northern Tool sells a neat pinch valve type nozzle (item #11303) that works well and is realtively cheap. I don't know how long it will last though. The only gun that I've seen is from Bob Pickard and is called the Pab-blaster http://www.pabblaster.com. It is designed to vary the abrasive flow. Jackie Beckman has one and may be able to provide guidance about how useful it is... I've heard great things about it, but have never used one.
Hope this helps
Tony
The tightrope between being strange and being creative is too narrow to walk without occasionally landing on both sides..." Scott Berkun
-
- Posts: 475
- Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2003 5:01 pm
- Location: Arizona
- Contact:
Gee Tony, I wish you would have told me you never used one before - you could have tried it out to see how you like it! I've never used anything else so I don't know what to say about how it compairs to others. I do know that I like it . . . not that that helps anyone much I suppose.The only gun that I've seen is from Bob Pickard and is called the Pab-blaster http://www.pabblaster.com. It is designed to vary the abrasive flow. Jackie Beckman has one and may be able to provide guidance about how useful it is... I've heard great things about it, but have never used one.
Jackie
-
- Posts: 1037
- Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2003 5:59 pm
- Location: Massachusetts, USA
- Contact:
-
- Posts: 65
- Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2003 10:36 pm
- Location: Raleigh, NC
Ron,
If you don't go with the PAB gun from Bob Pickard, you'll want a foot pedal for certain. I've had both the Glastar and the Rayzist pedals, and the Rayzist is hands down a more robust device. They both work on the same principal, but the Rayzist comes with much nicer hoses and connects easier than the Glastar. I like Glastar products....I have one of their grinders, and my pressure pot is a Glastar...but the foot pedal is a weeny...IMO of course.
Cliff
If you don't go with the PAB gun from Bob Pickard, you'll want a foot pedal for certain. I've had both the Glastar and the Rayzist pedals, and the Rayzist is hands down a more robust device. They both work on the same principal, but the Rayzist comes with much nicer hoses and connects easier than the Glastar. I like Glastar products....I have one of their grinders, and my pressure pot is a Glastar...but the foot pedal is a weeny...IMO of course.
Cliff
Thanks All!
Pedal and hoses ordered and I'm getting a feel for the setting. Thanks Guys, I appreciate the help. Now on to Gluechipping!
Ron Bell
Black Creek Glass
Black Creek Glass