P.O-ed and totally bummed out

[Gale aka artistefem]

Just pulled a gorgeous #1 fuse plate - blank out of the kiln. So happy with the perfectly formed edges, smooth full fuse top- controlled bubbling, I was doing the dance of joy.

That is until I took it out into the bright light of the studio table. The dichro inclusions on the attached edge piece had all but burned out (2 measly pieces left with barely any color).

I immediately got out my "new" sheet of rainbow dichro and sure enough my *!~!^@#$-ity whsl' supplier has changed his dichro supplier. No longer is he selling CBS.

Unbeknownst to me, he's shlepping out dichro made by Navitar Coating Labs!!!!!!!! Anybody heard of this company?

Well-l-l-l-l...... the dichro coatings - even sandwiched between sheets burn out!

Time to call my whsl-er and have a talk with him!

Double C-rap! All that work & Major bummed. :doubt:

[dee]

Just pulled a gorgeous #1 fuse plate - blank out of the kiln. So happy with the perfectly formed edges, smooth full fuse top- controlled bubbling, I was doing the dance of joy.

That is until I took it out into the bright light of the studio table. The dichro inclusions on the attached edge piece had all but burned out (2 measly pieces left with barely any color).

I immediately got out my "new" sheet of rainbow dichro and sure enough my *!~!^@#$-ity whsl' supplier has changed his dichro supplier. No longer is he selling CBS.

Unbeknownst to me, he's shlepping out dichro made by Navitar Coating Labs!!!!!!!! Anybody heard of this company?

Well-l-l-l-l...... the dichro coatings - even sandwiched between sheets burn out!

Time to call my whsl-er and have a talk with him!

Double C-rap! All that work & Major bummed. :doubt:

yes, navitar is generally also very good, i've used a variety of their colors at times and not had burnout - what color was it? what temp was your top fuse? i know someone else who uses alot of navitar and has for many years, w/o this problem tho' the rainbow coating isn't one of them. navitar does have a website - http://www.navitar.com/coating/artglass.htm - i have talked with dan in the past, they are on the west coast but call and see what they say about the burnout...
D

[Gale aka artistefem]

Thanks Dee......top temp was the big bonano - full flat fuse @ approx' 1525-50F with a 5 min soak.

I will call them.

[dee]

Thanks Dee......top temp was the big bonano - full flat fuse @ approx' 1525-50F with a 5 min soak.

I will call them.

let me know what they say - i don't go that high in my kiln unless i'm doing a slab of galaxy glass and combing so only can say at temps around 1400 - 1425 i have had no problems with it...

D

[Brock]

What is is Galaxy glass?

[dee]

What is is Galaxy glass?

lol it's what i do with my scrap - when the slabs come out of the kiln it makes me think of pics of the milky way from the hubble telescope hence galaxy glass
D

[Brian and Jenny Blanthorn]

Just pulled a gorgeous #1 fuse plate - blank out of the kiln. So happy with the perfectly formed edges, smooth full fuse top- controlled bubbling, I was doing the dance of joy.

That is until I took it out into the bright light of the studio table. The dichro inclusions on the attached edge piece had all but burned out (2 measly pieces left with barely any color).

I immediately got out my "new" sheet of rainbow dichro and sure enough my *!~!^@#$-ity whsl' supplier has changed his dichro supplier. No longer is he selling CBS.

Unbeknownst to me, he's shlepping out dichro made by Navitar Coating Labs!!!!!!!! Anybody heard of this company?

Well-l-l-l-l...... the dichro coatings - even sandwiched between sheets burn out!

Time to call my whsl-er and have a talk with him!

Double C-rap! All that work & Major bummed. :doubt:

Expect things 2 change from batch 2 batch or purchace 2 purchace

And test B4 use

The only way arround this I have found is once something works is 2 buy lots of stock from same batch

But I still get problems

If U were expecting same material then I think U have some call back on ur supplier

Having failed U can expect 2 suceed next time

One thing tho

Have a good look at the bad peice it shure will have some secrets 2 tell U

But it may hide its virtue from U initially

Brian

[Gale aka artistefem]

Thanks all and you're sure right Brian. Close investigation of what happened with this dichro burnout/glass interaction will certainly lead to new and secret tech advances.

By the by - what dichro company do you use?

[Brian and Jenny Blanthorn]

Thanks all and you're sure right Brian. Close investigation of what happened with this dichro burnout/glass interaction will certainly lead to new and secret tech advances.

By the by - what dichro company do you use?

I dont use Dicro, or steel rooms

All technology regarding the effect is classified

Hence we live on a secret fortified island location n glass makers R not allowed 2 leave n R forbiden any swimming lessons

But I can tell U I share many of ur Dicro problems n mayB a few more

Brian

[Brian and Jenny Blanthorn]

Thanks all and you're sure right Brian. Close investigation of what happened with this dichro burnout/glass interaction will certainly lead to new and secret tech advances.

I was thinking a little more on this

I have posted many times on my firing methods

This was worked out with the Global Lab Afiliates

Basicaly if I go fast n high the stuff goes yellow then silver with no colours

I now fire something like 50 c /h vented till 700 c close vent

Then 20 c / h till done n I even soak as well if I feel the urge

U could also consider Baffle n Go

Brian

[Gale aka artistefem]

Hmmm....I'm ramping 90 degrees per hr - vented. Close lid @ 1 hr, 10 min' mark. Soak 8 or 10 or 20 minutes depending on surface and edge treatment I want. Also, with translucent glass lay-ups, I do the ramp-up squeeze soak to clear the bubbles out.

Is this still too fast in the o-pinions of your glo-o-o-w-bal affilite network?

Hadn't considered baffle n go - is the direct heat intensity from the side fire elements just too much for our tender, delectable and delicate, delicious dichro?

I'm finding the results to be spotty with this dichro brand in the higher temp range. Same firing cycles - but inconsistency from fuse to fuse. Beginning to suspect problems due to dichro placement (edge versus center of piece) and possibly reactive interactions between glass base colors. Is this possible???

[Brian and Jenny Blanthorn]

Hmmm....I'm ramping 90 degrees per hr - vented. Close lid @ 1 hr, 10 min' mark. Soak 8 or 10 or 20 minutes depending on surface and edge treatment I want. Also, with translucent glass lay-ups, I do the ramp-up squeeze soak to clear the bubbles out.

Is this still too fast in the o-pinions of your glo-o-o-w-bal affilite network?

Hadn't considered baffle n go - is the direct heat intensity from the side fire elements just too much for our tender, delectable and delicate, delicious dichro?

I'm finding the results to be spotty with this dichro brand in the higher temp range. Same firing cycles - but inconsistency from fuse to fuse. Beginning to suspect problems due to dichro placement (edge versus center of piece) and possibly reactive interactions between glass base colors. Is this possible???

Either U got some bum Dicro

Or its just more suseptabble 2 burning out

If U got side elements then U will get a

Zap n Blastem tm effect

So Bafle n go would help

4 what U want just a few inches should B OK

If U go fast U get unevenivity

The direct radiation hits the glass n U get over heating so burn out

Also if U go fast then cool, the glass is still getting hotter 4 a while as it soakes up the heat

If U got a lot of glass this can B signifcant



I do not follow ur cycle

"I'm ramping 90 degrees per hr - vented. Close lid @ 1 hr, 10 min' mark. Soak 8 or 10 or 20 minutes "

I assume F ??

Can U wright this again ??

Brian

[Gale aka artistefem]

Brian....I'll try 2 put it in2 bettr jam-speek-LOL!

My kiln has side elements - ceramic kiln originally.

I heat up 15 degrees F per every 10 (sometimes I slow it down to 15 min's) to my top process temp.

I C why U can't follow my firing schedule. I typo-ed the 90. It should read 900 degrees per hr .

I do the ramp up/heat up with the kiln lid vented, then close it at the top process temp and do a short soak.

[Brian and Jenny Blanthorn]

Brian....I'll try 2 put it in2 bettr jam-speek-LOL!

My kiln has side elements - ceramic kiln originally.

I heat up 15 degrees F per every 10 (sometimes I slow it down to 15 min's) to my top process temp.

I C why U can't follow my firing schedule. I typo-ed the 90. It should read 900 degrees per hr .

I do the ramp up/heat up with the kiln lid vented, then close it at the top process temp and do a short soak.

U might try is a lot slower with this new flavour of dicro

I have found with my stuff I can soak for ages or go up at 20 C hour n not get any burn out

So I can get a lot of movement at low temps no burn out

As opposed 2 fast fire fast movement n burn out

Brian

[Brian and Jenny Blanthorn]

Brian....I'll try 2 put it in2 bettr jam-speek-LOL!

My kiln has side elements - ceramic kiln originally.

I heat up 15 degrees F per every 10 (sometimes I slow it down to 15 min's) to my top process temp.

I C why U can't follow my firing schedule. I typo-ed the 90. It should read 900 degrees per hr .

I do the ramp up/heat up with the kiln lid vented, then close it at the top process temp and do a short soak.

U might try is a lot slower with this new flavour of dicro

I have found with my stuff I can soak for ages or go up at 20 C hour n not get any burn out

So I can get a lot of movement at low temps no burn out

As opposed 2 fast fire fast movement n burn out

Brian