There are a lot of shades in your image, so the fastest and easiest way to obtain this is probably with enamels/Glassline/etc. However, if you layer and blend powders you can pretty much dial in exactly the colors you want (that's the essence of pate de verre--I think I'm up to 7,300 different color test samples at the moment). If you're familiar with fresco painting techniques, layering powders works in much the same way.
The big deal with any of these methods is to test. I've got to admit I strongly prefer the palette on the other side of the fence, but I don't see why you couldn't do a good job of reproducing the colors in this image with System 96 powders. They offer deep gold pink, light purple, dark purple, violet, etc...all transparent colors, which is what you need for mixing and blending.
I've got a few posts on my blog that talk about mixing and layering frit:
http://www.morganica.com/bloggery/2006/ ... tercolors/
http://www.morganica.com/bloggery/2007/ ... -de-verre/
http://www.morganica.com/bloggery/2009/ ... cking-may/
http://www.morganica.com/bloggery/2007/ ... -for-frit/
The trick with layering is to keep the layers thin and use a lot of them--if you're doing flatwork, build it upside down. That way, the bubbles introduced by the powder will move up, to the back of the piece, and if you need to coldwork the front you won't be breaking through and making pinholes in the front. Start with a thin crystal clear sheet--the regular clear glasses can have tints that muddy your color--draw your outlines, and start by putting down highlights, then work your way back.
Dark transparents under clear will add depth, and the farther you put them back in the layers, the more they'll start looking like shadows. Light transparents will disappear unless you have a lot of them in front of a dark--I sometimes temper them by mixing a little bit of a corresponding opaque powder into the mix.
Greys and mid-purples are really wonderful for adding shadows, a thin layer of an amber will tone down an overbright color and make it look more natural (but they're usually very reactive so you "buffer" them with a layer of clear between them and whatever they're going to react with).