Steve, double irid haze thingy
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Steve, double irid haze thingy
Just wondering if you found out anything else about the haze problem and the double irid?
I fired a double irid piece last night and it turned out crystal clear. I blasted off the irid with 120 grit aluminum oxide grit, 80 psi, washed with soap and water and a green 3m pad. Firing cycle was 120 min to 1000 f, 30 min to 1225 f. 90 min soak, 45 min to 1450 f, 35 min soak, cool and anneal. This was a 15 inch plate.
Ron
I fired a double irid piece last night and it turned out crystal clear. I blasted off the irid with 120 grit aluminum oxide grit, 80 psi, washed with soap and water and a green 3m pad. Firing cycle was 120 min to 1000 f, 30 min to 1225 f. 90 min soak, 45 min to 1450 f, 35 min soak, cool and anneal. This was a 15 inch plate.
Ron
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Ron,
No. I haven't figured it out yet. However, so far, everyone that has responded to me that they have successfully used this technique has been using aluminum oxide. Tony has indicated that the gave up on this technique because of the same problems I'm having - he's using silicon carbide.
So far, my unproven theory is that the silicon carbide grit fractures the surface of glass differently than aluminum oxide - and that makes some sort of difference when refired. I also see this when I blast and firepolish certain colors of glass.
I just ordered a box of aluminum oxide grit 120- and I'll put this theory to rest as soon as it comes. I'll then be the proud owner of three boxes of grit!
If I still have a problem, then I'll be at a total loss as to what variable I'm missing. If the haze disappears - then we'll have to revise what we tell people about the two grits being interchangeable.
I'll let you know what I find out.
Steve
http://www.clearwaterglass.com/chinese_horse_bowl.htm
ps. If this link doesn't work today, sorry. I'm having some web server problems. sci
No. I haven't figured it out yet. However, so far, everyone that has responded to me that they have successfully used this technique has been using aluminum oxide. Tony has indicated that the gave up on this technique because of the same problems I'm having - he's using silicon carbide.
So far, my unproven theory is that the silicon carbide grit fractures the surface of glass differently than aluminum oxide - and that makes some sort of difference when refired. I also see this when I blast and firepolish certain colors of glass.
I just ordered a box of aluminum oxide grit 120- and I'll put this theory to rest as soon as it comes. I'll then be the proud owner of three boxes of grit!
If I still have a problem, then I'll be at a total loss as to what variable I'm missing. If the haze disappears - then we'll have to revise what we tell people about the two grits being interchangeable.
I'll let you know what I find out.
Steve
http://www.clearwaterglass.com/chinese_horse_bowl.htm
ps. If this link doesn't work today, sorry. I'm having some web server problems. sci
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What a beautiful job on the horse bowl Steve.
Please let us know how the Aluminum Oxide works for the irid on irid technique so we can all add it to our encyclopedia of useful information.
Tony
Please let us know how the Aluminum Oxide works for the irid on irid technique so we can all add it to our encyclopedia of useful information.
Tony
The tightrope between being strange and being creative is too narrow to walk without occasionally landing on both sides..." Scott Berkun
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I can tell you right now, emphatically, that AlOx works perfectly for the double irid process, I've been doing it for 20 years. I'm really living in fear because I'm in the midst of making my Pilchuck Auction piece, and
I blasted it with SiC. I won't be able to post any results until my metals arrive, but during our teaching we've had problems every time we've used SiC for this process. Brock
I blasted it with SiC. I won't be able to post any results until my metals arrive, but during our teaching we've had problems every time we've used SiC for this process. Brock
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Steve,
I noticed you said you had three "boxes" of grit. I was wondering if you were getting your grit through a specialty shop such a s a lapidary store ( that is where I got abrasives in small boxes for a vibralap ). I buy my abrasive for sandblasting through a sandblast supply store I found in the yellow pages. It was substantially cheaper that buying by the box. I don't know if I am incorrectly interpreting your comment... I've been know to jump the gun in the past.
Cheers
Bob
I noticed you said you had three "boxes" of grit. I was wondering if you were getting your grit through a specialty shop such a s a lapidary store ( that is where I got abrasives in small boxes for a vibralap ). I buy my abrasive for sandblasting through a sandblast supply store I found in the yellow pages. It was substantially cheaper that buying by the box. I don't know if I am incorrectly interpreting your comment... I've been know to jump the gun in the past.
Cheers
Bob
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Hi again Steve,Steve Immerman wrote:Bob,
I got my first two 50 lb "boxes" of grit from Glastar. They cost about $100 each.
I just ordered 50 lbs of aluminum oxide from McMaster Carr for about $50.00.
If the Aluminum works better than the silicon, I'll have 100lbs of silicone carbide for sale.........
Steve
Sounds about right for pricing. I recently got 2bags@ 55lb of 220 grit Al2O3 from a company called Manus for a total of $80Can... yes Canadian! It seems that once your material or equipment is not intentionally sold for hobby use the price drops substantially.
Al2O3 works fine for me but I just use it for getting as matte finmish prior to slumping. I haven't taken anything back up to full fuse.
Cheers
Bob
I have been blasting for that matte finish too using silicon carbide. I was told that I had to clean it like a mad woman, scrubby, scrubby, rinse, rinse, before firing it again.Bob wrote:
Al2O3 works fine for me but I just use it for getting as matte finmish prior to slumping. I haven't taken anything back up to full fuse.
Cheers
Bob
Can you tell me what the benefits or pros and cons of Al203 (which is what exactly? - aluminum doodleide? (Chemisty challenged girl)) vs. silicon carbide? I am currently borrowing a blaster, but am seriosly considering adding one to my studio. Would like to know a bit about the abrasives and why you would chose one over another.
Thanks
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Hi Cynthia,Cynthia Oliver wrote:I have been blasting for that matte finish too using silicon carbide. I was told that I had to clean it like a mad woman, scrubby, scrubby, rinse, rinse, before firing it again.Bob wrote:
Al2O3 works fine for me but I just use it for getting as matte finmish prior to slumping. I haven't taken anything back up to full fuse.
Cheers
Bob
Can you tell me what the benefits or pros and cons of Al203 (which is what exactly? - aluminum doodleide? (Chemisty challenged girl)) vs. silicon carbide? I am currently borrowing a blaster, but am seriosly considering adding one to my studio. Would like to know a bit about the abrasives and why you would chose one over another.
Thanks
Well now I am out of my depth. When in doubt tell the truth. Al203 is alumina oxide... I believe. I use it because of a post by Steve Klein about a year ago. Ho said that he uses 220 grit alumina oxide to get his incredible satin finish. If it is good enough for Steve it is more than adequate for me. That was all the thought and research I put into it.
No kidding.
Cheers
Bob
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I use 280 silicon carbide on my bowls then fire polish
Well I used 2 till I became peb boy
But I do have a venturi extraction system
That should B vortex extraction
I was wondering wether the problen is the silica on the blasting haze
As its possible the irid is a layer of stuff including silicon
n the silicon is pushing the irid in2 the glass rather than abrading it
Well at least a bit of it
Might B wrong but odd that alumina seams OK
Well I used 2 till I became peb boy
But I do have a venturi extraction system
That should B vortex extraction
I was wondering wether the problen is the silica on the blasting haze
As its possible the irid is a layer of stuff including silicon
n the silicon is pushing the irid in2 the glass rather than abrading it
Well at least a bit of it
Might B wrong but odd that alumina seams OK
Last edited by Brian and Jenny Blanthorn on Fri Mar 14, 2003 5:36 am, edited 1 time in total.
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As far as blasting for the matte finish, I use silicon carbide and get excellent results. I rinse the piece under running water and have never scrubbed a piece to get it clean. It is true that I don't use the irid on irid technique because I haven't been able to get rid of the haze... much like Steve's experience. But with two cabinets full of silicon carbide, I'm not about to discard it for Al2O3 which is guaranteed to give me a permanent twitch after all the shocks I'll get from it here in the dry winter air.
Tony
Tony
The tightrope between being strange and being creative is too narrow to walk without occasionally landing on both sides..." Scott Berkun
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Tony,Tony Smith wrote:What a beautiful job on the horse bowl Steve.
Please let us know how the Aluminum Oxide works for the irid on irid technique so we can all add it to our encyclopedia of useful information.
Tony
The new grit came today. Emptied the old grit, and filled with 120 Aluminum Oxide, and blasted some test pieces. In the kiln now.
I should have an answer by tomorrow am..........
Steve
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I've used silicon carbide for a number of years and have noticed that careful cleaning is necessary because it's very easy to leave a slight silicon carbide residue on a piece that you think is clean. This is even true with clear float glass. I first discovered this when I lit a "clean" piece of carved 1/2" float with neon: the amount of silicon carbide still on the glass was a real surprise! Cleaning the piece under running water works well for me, too, and I use a soft bristle brush (like a toothbrush) to go over the etched or carved areas while water is flowing across the glass. This seems to do the job just fine.