WarmGlass.com

Hi,
I am trying to mount a flat fused piece of glass to a painted wooden panel to be hung vertically. The glass is 12" x 12" and approximately 3/8" thick, weight approximately 3.5 lbs. The glass is a variety of cathedral colors. I want to visually float the glass about 1/2" away from the panel. Ideally, the mounting mechanism disappears.

I have tried:
1. Bolting a 6" x 6" x 1/2" piece of clear acrylic to the panel and attaching the glass with a GE SCS1200 construction silicone adhesive that I was told would work better with the acrylic.
2. Using 1" flat bolts (no acrylic block) with a triolyse adhesive. Had a failure with this, probably because there was no flexibility, and the bolts were visible.
3. I was ready to use the 3M DP100 Plus acrylic epoxy and the acrylic block, but after reading the post titled "French Cleat size recommendation", I am nervous about that technique.

The look of the acrylic is great, but I certainly don't want the glass to shear off one day. Any suggestions would be soooo appreciated.
Thanks,
Sandy

I paint on float with vitreous paints, then put 1/2" transparent plastic bumpers on the back of the glass, that way it floats above the board. I then mount it with L Screws on whiteboard. I buy all materials from Homo Depot.

These are the bumpers:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/OOK-1-2-in-C ... c=17588969#

Thanks for the idea Judd. I hadn't seen the large bumpers. My glass is highly textured and I have been trying to avoid the hardware being visible. I may have to start looking for ways to disguise L hooks.

Any other thoughts out there?
Sandy

Hang your glass makes an expensive but effective system for blind mounting. they are a board sponsor, so you can click above to get to their site.

L screws rely on gravity as opposed to glue, but you can see them.

Judd wrote:I paint on float with vitreous paints, then put 1/2" transparent plastic bumpers on the back of the glass, that way it floats above the board. I then mount it with L Screws on whiteboard. I buy all materials from Homo Depot.

These are the bumpers:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/OOK-1-2-in-C ... c=17588969#

Judd, do you have any photos that shows this set-up that you could post? I'm really curious about how it looks.

Bert,
I think the HYG cabinet posts might work for me. They are a little long, but at least I can attach them from behind the wooden panel. Thanks, Sandy

I hate sharing my website because I got the pics screwed up. That said, Particle Acceleration is a good example.

http://www.juddmann.com/wp-content/uplo ... ration.jpg

Not a great example. It's about 10"x20" of glass mounted on white board. The L screws are left, right and bottom and not horribly noticeable.

Helios Glass publishes an ebook of stands and mounting techniques that discusses the L-hook technique. The tip of the hook is visible, no getting around that, but surprisingly not distracting to the piece. in my experience.

This is the ebook:
Easy to Make Stands for Fused Glass
http://fusedglassbooks.com/

I did this piece that way:
[attachment=0]Fish_levels.jpg[/attachment]

I have no connection to Helios except appreciating their creative thinking and problem solving.

--SB

I use bolt cutters to shorten the length of L-screws, and then dip them in Plasti-dip (which comes in lots of colors). I purchase tiny silicone O-rings to make the same hooks Bullseye sells.

The fish looks great. I too have the ebook. Nice tip on the plastic dip too. Just for the record, I put the piece together with DP105 on an acrylic block and it is still hanging.

I use 1/2" long by 1" dia alum standoffs from Doug Mockett hardware. rough up the spots on the back of the artwork a little with dremel tool. glue the standoffs, with a bolt inside, flush bottom, with E6000 or West Marine G Flex. when cured, 24 hrs twist out the bolt. Use the bolt thru your backer and there you have it. I put 3-4 standoffs per pc. a 20 x 20 takes 4 standoffs. some of mine weigh 35-40 lbs. haven't had a failure yet.

Mel Archer wrote:I use 1/2" long by 1" dia alum standoffs from Doug Mockett hardware. rough up the spots on the back of the artwork a little with dremel tool. glue the standoffs, with a bolt inside, flush bottom, with E6000 or West Marine G Flex. when cured, 24 hrs twist out the bolt. Use the bolt thru your backer and there you have it. I put 3-4 standoffs per pc. a 20 x 20 takes 4 standoffs. some of mine weigh 35-40 lbs. haven't had a failure yet.

that g flex is amazing stuff. take the time to read the package insert. amazing what you can make happen with it. r.