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thanks! I will give a lower temp, bigger hole a try.

Please excuse the post if it is a repeat. I thought I posted the question, but cannot find it anywhere. I am really enjoying the Pot Melt directions and pictures... so I decided to try it (twice so far), with mixed results. specifics: System96 and Spectrum (COE96 blown glass chunks) first time, top ...

But the real question is, why 1700 for 2 hours? that is a LOT of heat for a LONG time. that sounds more like an aggressive pot melt than a fuse. The time to cook is defined by how lumpy the glass is. So, if you have stacks of things that you want to all get flat, I do something like this: ramp up to...

just to be clear, the heat rates you described are for the slump, not the fuse right?? I have found that when I am slumping, I want as little heat has possible to accomplish the task. So, with textures on the bottom, if I wanted the inside of the bowl to be smooth, I would do a: 300d/h to 1100f h10 ...

Kugler is COE96 and is compatible with the Spectrum System96 slumping glass. It is color for glassblowing though, so many of the colors are "concentrated", and I have found that many of the reds will burn when slumping (which is a oxygen starved environment). You have to be careful with so...

If you are using System96, you can also use throw away glass from your local glassblowing shop. You can get some really wild combinations and effects that you cannot get from sheet glass... such as the nobbies the gaffer cuts off the end of a optic mold stuffed piece. If you go this route, make sure...

I had fun with copper last summer by seeing what would react to it. Sprinkle some frit on the copper and you get cool little "tree rings" as the frit reacts. Pick frits that are 'built' with gold or silver to react with copper. reds are (many times) built with gold blues are usually either...

the problem is the way you have to control the temp as the glass cools. You can easily keep turning up the kiln, peeking etc until the glass fusing to the perfect texture, but the problem then comes on the cooling side. A firing schedule that I use for my "bumpy" textured glass (two layers...

either. It depends on how thick the glass is. For two sheet thick (1/4in), on a big bowl, I tend to add more time. for example, I use 300deg/hr up to 1100 100deg/hr up to 1250 hold 10 The slow climb from 1100 to 1250 means that I am usually done before I even get to the 'hold 10' However, there are ...

I have used copper, silver and gold. But always encased under some clear. Everything that was on the surface became burnt. I am not sure about how they would mix with irids. In glassblowing, I always got interesting reactions from the different metals. If the frit is copper based, and you put gold o...

I have not done the project you are talking about... but with bullseye, at 1500+ degrees, you will get "spread" and then "shrink" when the temp goes back down. This leads to "puddling" where the glass close to each other attracts and draws glass from the stuff it is con...

I just finished my first test piece using the process described above. Conclusion: my assumptions about devit were all wrong. :-) I did an 8in rectangle using system96 clear on the bottom and various chunks of blown glass on the top... sprayed with superspray and cooked at 1500 to flatten the blown ...

Well, if you take it to 1500 and hold for 10 minutes, it will be smooth.

However, at that "smoothing" temperature, it will be about 1/4 inch thick. So stack it thick enough to not develop "holes" as it spreads during the heat and contracts during the cooling.

Steve

sorry for the late reply. Hmm... that is VERY interesting. I ALWAYS get some level of devit unless I coat the blown glass pieces. The base glass batch is Spectrum at the Seattle Glassblowing Studio. What is your batch? The Spectrum batch is considered pretty "cheap" in the glassblowing wor...

Hmmm... I have always considered 300dph aggressive. I was getting a lot of breakage... but that could be because I was using chunks of glass from glassblowing in my pieces. White is definitely the "hardest" and black is one of the "softest" colors. Hardness, from what I know, tra...

You can get it to mature as low as 1300 if you hold a long time (1 1/2 to 2 hrs). WOW! This is great news. When I work with pieces from glassblowing (and system 96), I always get devit... but if I bring the piece up to 1400+ on the slumping run, it moves way too much for bowl molds. On my last piec...

I agree with Barbara on the "lower and longer" philosophy for slumping. I tend to do all my slumping at no more than 1200 or 1250... even on the thick stuff. so for two sheets, I would do something like 100dph to 1000, hold 10 100dph to 1200, hold 10 drop for thicker: 100dph to 1000, hold ...

However, I find that using dichro comes with its own variables. The edges of where the dichro touches other glass will "bunch up" and pull away is if the surface tension changes because of the dichro. I don't have an easy answer for your situation, but "cooking" dichro at 1550 co...

if you get a crack in the same place again, my guess is that you have a piece of different COE glass. I broke six bowls in a row one time before I realized that the scrap glass I was using to slump with from one glassblowing shop was COE90 and the other was COE 96. (and I felt like and idiot afterwa...

I never heard of flipping over the piece from fuse to slump I am playing with textures. bumps, trying to simulate ice. big textures and small textures. But you want the bowl to still be usable (smooth on the inside) afterwards, so you flip it over before fusing. You still get all the "optics&q...