WarmGlass.com

You might ask the No Days people: https://nodaysadhesives.com/No-Days-Liq ... g-c5749935

Don't know if it will work for you, but hot glue is polymer based so shouldn't be water soluble. It burns off pretty clean, but you may want to test for your application if you try it.

We've had good luck with both scotch tape and clear packing tape. Just don't lay it on too thick.

Assume you've tried email and phone:

Digitry Company Inc.
449 Forest Ave
Suite 9
Portland, ME 04101
(207) 774-0300
Fax (617) 484-5220

They're still in business (according to Maine Sec of State).

Wondering about the infinite switch. When it's on low, do you see the elements clicking on an off infrequently, or are they mostly on all the time?

Is there a difference between the switch on low and the switch on high?

Price reduction! Everything for $1200. Great deal for anyone starting out.

Contact Helen Snyder hsnyder4@triad.rr.com or 704-618-7457.

I do not need anything fancy.. I will be adjusting the firing as it happens. So, hoping there is an affordable off-brand unit. If you're going to be beside the kiln during the firing, you might just need a pyrometer, instead of a full-fledged controller. That would give you the temperature in the k...

Bartlett and Orton are the two main manufacturers of controllers for kilns.

https://www.bartlettinstrument.com/kiln

https://www.ortonceramic.com/autofire-controllers

The perfect beginning setup for a warm/fused glass studio! Complete with Olympic Model SQ146GFE standard 120 volts programmed kiln on a stand and dolly for easy moving, LOTS of supplies, molds, tools, glass, glass remnants for jewelry etc, frits, stringers, books and much more. Asking $1,700 for the...

Try now. Should be able to post up to 10 photos

You can fire 4 or more times, but you have to be careful, the lower the temperature the better. If you fire that particular piece to a "higher fuse temperature" you're going to lose the texture or distort the design, which may not be what you want. What exactly do you mean by "spider ...

You can sift a very thin layer of clear powder (two grains thick at most) over the entire top of the piece.

Or use dichro on clear and fire upside down.

Put the clear below the black, not on top.

That's an odd situation. Normally, if elements were bad it would generate an error message (Failure to Heat) before it started cooling.

Has the problem repeated itself? Have you double checked the firing schedule to make sure you programmed what you thought you did?

I don't think expensive blades last much longer, if at all. They cut smoother, but they're often thinner. Have you tried dressing the blade you have by cutting through some kiln shelf material? Just a few cuts to wear away some of the diamonds and give the blade a little more life. The least expensi...

ginnibobinni wrote: ↑Thu Nov 28, 2024 3:36 pm There was 6mm, 3mm clear base and 3mm strips covering the top.

Still not enough glass for the temperature you fired to.

Not enough glass. The total glass is less than 6mm thick and that causes the holes.

One solution is to not fire as hot. Also, it helps to do a bubble hold at around 1230F for at least half an hour.

Haven't used them, but you might check out the website (this is a UK company): https://adjustabail.co.uk/

There are also a few Facebook comments.

You just posted one, Kathy, so not sure what you're asking.

The best place to post is to go to the "Techniques and Tools" forum and click on the "New Topic" button. Then post just like you did this time.

There won't be any harm to the kiln. The worst thing that can happen is that you get little black carbon spots on the glass.

Yes, you can use hot glue, just don't overdo it.