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If I want the glass smoother, rather than more like a task fuse, how long do you recommend holding it at the top temp? Or is that more a matter of what the top temp is? The smartest thing to do is to keep the hold time the same and just vary the temperature. 10 minutes is a good standard to use. If...

Also, when I refire, I was thinking of putting fiber paper on the bottomto help with airflow around the piece. Can I put kiln paper (I have Bullseye Thinfire) on top of the fiber paper to try and mitigate the rough texture or would that defeat the purpose of the fiber paper? Is fiber paper somethin...

Not long enough for a bubble hold. You need to hold at least 30 minutes at 1230F on the way up. Too fast from the bubble hold to your top temperature. 200 dph at the most. Too long a hold at the top temperature. Lots of lousy schedules at Makerspace and Reddit. As for refiring the damaged pieces, yo...

In general, it helps if you give us the firing schedule you used that caused the problem. The bubble was likely caused by firing too fast between 1200 and your top temperature. If you share your schedule we can answer more definitively. Slumping the piece won't fix the problem. And you can't fix it ...

We mostly use 5 mil, which might be easier than 9 mil to get on and off, but they're still hard to remove, especially if you're sweating.

Vinyl gloves would be easier to remove, but they're not very durable.

Here are some options: Nitrile gloves, durable and resistant to puncture. Not quite as flexible as Latex surgical gloves, which are more prone to puncture than nitrile gloves. Vinyl gloves are thin, but prone to puncture Neoprene gloves are designed to replicate latex (some people are allergic to la...

See here for a little more info: https://warmglass.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=364187 There's a nice chart about half way down the thread Most of the Ferro frits are no longer being made, but you might try some of these: https://ceramicsupplyusa.com/product-category/frits/ Or perhaps a local pottery ...

You might ask the No Days people: https://nodaysadhesives.com/No-Days-Liq ... g-c5749935

Don't know if it will work for you, but hot glue is polymer based so shouldn't be water soluble. It burns off pretty clean, but you may want to test for your application if you try it.

We've had good luck with both scotch tape and clear packing tape. Just don't lay it on too thick.

Assume you've tried email and phone:

Digitry Company Inc.
449 Forest Ave
Suite 9
Portland, ME 04101
(207) 774-0300
Fax (617) 484-5220

They're still in business (according to Maine Sec of State).

Wondering about the infinite switch. When it's on low, do you see the elements clicking on an off infrequently, or are they mostly on all the time?

Is there a difference between the switch on low and the switch on high?

Price reduction! Everything for $1200. Great deal for anyone starting out.

Contact Helen Snyder hsnyder4@triad.rr.com or 704-618-7457.

I do not need anything fancy.. I will be adjusting the firing as it happens. So, hoping there is an affordable off-brand unit. If you're going to be beside the kiln during the firing, you might just need a pyrometer, instead of a full-fledged controller. That would give you the temperature in the k...

Bartlett and Orton are the two main manufacturers of controllers for kilns.

https://www.bartlettinstrument.com/kiln

https://www.ortonceramic.com/autofire-controllers

The perfect beginning setup for a warm/fused glass studio! Complete with Olympic Model SQ146GFE standard 120 volts programmed kiln on a stand and dolly for easy moving, LOTS of supplies, molds, tools, glass, glass remnants for jewelry etc, frits, stringers, books and much more. Asking $1,700 for the...

Try now. Should be able to post up to 10 photos

You can fire 4 or more times, but you have to be careful, the lower the temperature the better. If you fire that particular piece to a "higher fuse temperature" you're going to lose the texture or distort the design, which may not be what you want. What exactly do you mean by "spider ...

You can sift a very thin layer of clear powder (two grains thick at most) over the entire top of the piece.

Or use dichro on clear and fire upside down.

Put the clear below the black, not on top.

That's an odd situation. Normally, if elements were bad it would generate an error message (Failure to Heat) before it started cooling.

Has the problem repeated itself? Have you double checked the firing schedule to make sure you programmed what you thought you did?