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Thanks for all the info. You guys rock!

I love this board!

Cheers to all

Suzanne

hi there I am looking any recommendations for a good fusing class that specifically deals with recycled, window or float glass. Things that will cover; figuring out the COE, and then the proper heat up, anneal, cool down cycle, special considerations when using this glass, etc.. Or , if anyone can r...

I know what you mean about throwing out bits...As soon as you get rid of it, you need it. But for all your extra glass? If it is mixed then a fusing job , as you pointed out, would be nixed. However if you have a bottle of glue and some mortar well here is a kitchy idea for you...have you ever heard...

Hi Bert Well the success is still in the making. I'm currently just working on some new pieces for the current series. The foray into recycled float is relatively new for me, so when they are done I will pop you an email to let you know what worked and what did not... With your work, do you mostly u...

Thanks Bert! I spent so much time cleaning the bits I wanted to be able to salvage the glass. My usual ramp for this type of glass is 450F/hr to 900F then 900F/hr until the fuse point. So I will slow down the ramp to 350/hr to 900F, then 800F to fuse point. It is window glass (thicker than float) an...

If anybody has any ideas on this one, that would be grand. I was firing some recycled glass and at 1423F one of my molds seriously cracked and I had to shut down the kiln (the glass and clay mold bits where tipping towards one of my elements). I crashed cooled to 1050F , closed the kiln door and the...

Hey Val I have found for small pieces where there will not be any chance of impact shock, then a harder bond glue from locktite is great. If the shapes are hard to hold together by hand, and the glass is transparent then I use the UV activated locktite. With the UV activator glues you need sunlight ...

Hi there I am putting the same piece of glass into the kiln for either multiple fusings or 3 separate firings of fusing, then tack fusing, then slumping . I was told once that each time you put the piece back into the kiln, you should increase the time (double it) at the Annealing Temp and half the ...

Tim I have a side fired kiln (old ceramic kiln). Also am layering on the investment to try to keep the thickness even. The specs I have on Gabbert glass (ruby red) is that it doesn't really start to flow out of the clay flower pot until about 1600F-1650F with a hold of a few hours. I used investment...

Charlie and Steve Thanks for the tips. I was concerned about having the glass in the 900F-1600F range for too long (vitrification etc..). But it sounds like I have some play there to heat more slowly through that range than a traditional fuse. Also for first time through I will probably cure my mold...

Colin

Thanks!

I agree with you on the the C vs F (but my kiln only speak F..hence...)

OK..that helps. So in F speak..go up fast to about 1472F then ramp at about 122F/hr until the glass flows. I will try this.

Cheers

Suzanne

PS. FYI the formula for C to F is ; C = 0.5555 (F-32)

Hi Colin

I'm using gabbert cullet glass (not lead) ruby red. I believe the glass will start flowing at about 1600F-1650F. Just not sure how fast to heat it up from the 900F mark.

Suzanne

Hi there I'm casting a shoe like form (real size, with about 1/2" walls on either side of shoe). I'm going to use the flower pot method ( suspend the flower pot full of glass cullet which was put in at room temp and heated at the same time as the mold) With this method, I'm unsure how fast to t...