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Thanks, Marian. Forgot to mention that the edge is actually clear glass and the piece was photographed on a white background. So, I think filling with clear frit will work well. I really like your idea about adding more design elements for camouflage and will keep that in mind if I ever need to repa...

After fusing a 10" round piece to 1/4" thickness, I lifted the kiln lid and discovered one of the heating element metal pins had dropped from the lid onto the edge of the piece during a full fuse cycle. I easily removed the pin, which was partly embedded in the glass, but it left a 1/4&quo...

Thanks so much for the education and solutions, Morganica. The reason I chose to cut the bottom layer into several pieces to let the air escape is because the last time I stacked 2 single larger pieces of glass of together, I got a lot of air bubbles. With that piece, I inserted small chunks of clea...

I tried a technique that I read about in a book, but it did not turn out very well. I took two layers of 90 COE glass to a full fuse holding at the top temp. of 1480 degrees for 10 minutes. To let the air bubbles escape from the bottom, I cut the "Clear" 3mm base layer into sections and to...

Thanks so much Cynthia, for taking the time to explain the "flip & fire" technique. It sounds fascinating and I'll definitely give it a try on my next project. With 3 comments to leave the white petals as they are, I'm going to go ahead and slump the piece. Guess I'm more focused on ma...

Thank you both for your comments. As a novice glass fuser, I guess I'm being way too picky. It would be interesting to know if there are any techniques that would work, though. It has a brilliant 1" dichroic center and I'll post a photo after it's slumped Vonon, since you'd like to see it.

I assembled this piece using black medium frit to fill in some areas around the white flower petals on the design layer. The pre-fused white petal edges were smooth, but after a full fuse, the black frit touching them caused this ragged and nipped look. I am wondering if there is a technique that wo...

That's very interesting, Bert, and good to know your thoughts regarding your math formula for 1/4" thick fused glass. I followed your advice in your earlier reply and opted to go ahead and fire the piece again. I decided to slowly take it up only to fire polish temps this time as it's already f...

Thanks for your kind words, Bob. I feel much better knowing that.

Thank you so much, Bert. I am relieved that it can be refired, as I had spent a lot of time designing and preparing this piece as a special gift. Morganica, I'm embarassed to say that I mistakenly entered 60 degrees F instead of 950 degrees F for the annealing segment. The full rapid decent from the...

After a piece I made was fully fused, I discovered that I had mistakenly entered the wrong information in the annealing segment. So, even though the piece hasn't cracked yet, I think it most likely will at some point. Is it possible to refire it so that it can be saved? It's now 1/4" thick, so ...