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It has been suggested on this board before that you can bevel the edges of the glass that a-joins so there is an overlap of sorts: _______/ /_________ I use powder of the same colour to cover the joint and help disguise the join. This works only if you are going to full fuse though. You could make a...

I agree with Laurie on the three hour soak at 950F. However I disagree on the soaks during the annealing cool. The principle is to reduce the temperature gradually enough that the whole of the glass is within a few (+/- 5 deg) throughout. This in my view is better achieved by a slow consistent cooli...

Thanks Cynthia.
Now to try it out.

...... I cheat--I pre-edge my banks at an angle before I slump them, which can be done quickly (i.e., in less than an hour) on just about anything, including hand-lapping. If I want a shiny, transparent edge I take the edges to 600 grit, then stick them in the mold and slump, going just a little ho...

This looks like an annealing fracture. You have tack fused pointed pieces on the blank, and this means that more care is needed in annealing. Cynthia Morgan suggests using annealing schedules for 2-4 times the actual thickness when there are angular or pointed pieces. She will be able to give better...

No, the slumping temperature is too low for the flux (borax) to work. A second firing to tack fuse temperatures is required to remove the devit.

Thinfire turns to powder upon firing. You may get the image transferred to the glass, but you will have a pile of powder in between. Transfers can give strong images. You could use vitreous paint or enamels to obtain the image.

Hello everyone, Is there a difference between Glass A and Borax? Yes the devit sprays contain low firing glass particles. Borax is a glass flux used in glass making to reduce the melting temperatures. Glaze A , Powder that mixed with water. It prevent the devit . It does not remove the extent devit...

Hi Bert, Not sure when it happened, I know before I went to bed I looked at the controller and it seemed on schedule, then I checked the kiln this morning at 11:30 a.m. and it was just starting to anneal, which surprised me. I started the program at 7:30 p.m. the night before. The total run time wa...

In my experience opals are more prone to devit than transparent glasses. So, you have to make sure the glass is perfectly clean before firing. Yes you can use a hand pad and water, or even wet and dry sandpaper, again with water to abrade the surface. Clean very well, add devit spray if desired. The...

ciment fondu

So Lauri, you suggest a rule of thumb of twice as fast a heat up as the initial rate of cooling until the Annealing temp is reached. Then double the initial re-heat rate.
Do I understand you correctly?
Stephen

I posted an off the cuff kind of response on how to begin to think about the rate of advance that might be used on any subsequent firings to the first full fuse. I have now looked at the Bullseye schedules for thick slabs and at stone's rates of advance for single pieces of glass and have come up wi...

Hi Bert, thanks for the reply. We're all dealing with issues of conservation (electricity, etc.), efficiency (labor), profitability (overhead, taxes), etc. I'm trying to make the best da-- glass that I can, but already know that I have altered Bullseye recommendations for their 1/4" thick glas...

Hi Stephen, Thanks for the reply. Do you think a reheat of 50 deg.F./hr all the way up to my slump temp of 1150 deg.F. is a safe strategy? Or do I need to slow down the rate as I approach 700 deg.F., and again through the 800 and 900 range? (Sorry for all the Fahrenheit references--I know you're fa...

I'd do the re heat at less than 25C/hr. Yes 5 days seems about right.
Nest time think of casting the curve rather than curving after casting.

Here is a reference to translucent concrete from my Glass News blog:
http://glass-news-items.blogspot.co.uk/ ... crete.html

I suggest trying two separate firings. You have nothing to loose as the current process isn't working. Spray each firing with borax solution. You may have to embrace devitrification is part of the process.

I think it should work as well as the smaller piece, as long as there is sufficient space between the elements and the glass

There is a company ( don't have the reference) that uses glass frit instead of sand to produce translucent concrete bricks. Possibly translucent panels for load bearing walls? Up lit paving stones? Privacy screens? etc.