hi there, I've been firing glass just for one month, my results have been great and also a dissaster. Does it matter if y fire at the same time pieces of different sizes? May I fuse and slump at the same firing? Please don't laugh at my questions, or my english,
Karen
I am very new to fusing as well but some basic info for you - No, you can not fuse and slump at the same time - fusing occurs at a higher temp than slumping. Firing different size pieces can be okay but may not work out well for certain projects. I would recommend that you search the archives for more information, buy a book on fusing - like Brad Walker's book available right here on this site, and try to find a beginner class to teach you the basics.
Susan is absolutely right
I would like to second the purchase of Brad's book It is worth every cent. I also think this board has been a great resource for the beginner- to- expert.
The people on the board are kind and very helpful
Have fun fusing
Me Kim
I don't get how to use the emoticons on the side yet - but I'm sending a big smile
I forgot to mention that there is also a tutorial on this site (look right next to the warm glass logo) that should give you some quick basic info too. I have used this board a great deal and recently starting searching through the Old Archive as well - it's a fabulous way to pass the time while you are waiting on the kiln to finish cooking your latest experiments - I think I spent 2 or 3 hours reading this morning. Glass people are wonderful!
Well, maybe. Of course you can fuse and slump at the same time as long as you consider the process, and the trade offs.
Fusing does occur at a higher temp than slump, so your piece will slump first and fuse second. In a shallow mold that may be acceptable. I find it works with just a slight edge aberation where the top sheet actually moves more than the bottom one. I don't find it objectionable on some pieces. But the deeper, or steeper the sides of the mold the more objectionable it becomes, so it's a trade off.
You will ALWAYS be best off flat fusing and then slumping, but if you never take a chance you'll never find new ways to do things that work well for you.
He means to shield the heat source, (element) with something. Cut up kiln shelves, bricks, kiln furniture, anything that can take the heat. This allows the material used as a baffle to act as a radiator, to absorb, then release the heat from the elements. It makes a more even, diffused heat source.
Brock
My memory is so good, I can't remember the last time I forgot something . . .
Karen in Chile wrote:well, I suppose another shelf, between the direct heat and the pieces of glass will work??!!
Well . . . it would. Baffling is normally only done in side fired kilns, to avoid the possibility of uneven heating, and thermal shock. If you have a top fired kiln, don't bother. Brock
My memory is so good, I can't remember the last time I forgot something . . .
Hi, Karen,
I'm no expert, but I often fuse and slump the same piece in one step - especially when I'm working with float glass. It's a matter of knowing your kiln and lots and lots o' trial and error. If you don't want to go through as much trial n' error, fuse first, then slump. Still, you'll find it will take some time to get to know your kiln.
Additionally, I often do multiple pieces at once. There are "hot spots" in my kiln that I try to avoid.
I don't think that you can expect to fuse one piece and slump another in the same firing, and get really good results with your slumped piece.
A final thought.... I imagine that you are putting so much thought and work into your art, there really isn't much point in trying to rush it.
~ Joanne
"What neglected medication made you think THAT was a good idea??"
- me, to myself