skamol and kiln wash

Paul Housberg · Post by **Paul Housberg** » Sat Jan 10, 2004 11:17 pm

Has anybody tried fusing or slumping on Skamol prepared with kiln wash?

Would like to be able to carve it (perhaps on a CNC machine) and coat with wash for a reusable slumping or kilncasting mold. Has that been tried? Does Skamol break down after repeated firings?

Ron Coleman · Post by **Ron Coleman** » Sat Jan 10, 2004 11:27 pm

Paul

Have you checked out this link?

http://www.warmglass.com/Skamol.htm

Ron

Paul Housberg · Post by **Paul Housberg** » Sun Jan 11, 2004 10:11 am

Ron Coleman wrote:Paul

Have you checked out this link?

http://www.warmglass.com/Skamol.htm

Ron

Yes. But, I'm interested in actual hands-on experience. And, specifically use of kiln wash with the board.

Marty · Post by **Marty** » Sun Jan 11, 2004 1:05 pm

Paul- I found kilnwash on verm board fine for slumping but not for fusing. I'd assume you'd need a more serious separator for casting as well. I think the problem is that the surface is so irregular- but maybe I didn't coat it well enough with kilnwash. BE uses fiber paper when casting in their verm. box molds.
You can definitely carve the stuff- I used a plunge router. Have someone hold a vacuum nozzle near the work when you cut- it's dusty.
Marty

Brock · Post by **Brock** » Sun Jan 11, 2004 1:35 pm

Marty, how do you think it would be structurally? Could you router out points, or leave little pyramids sticking up? Would they survive? Brock

Paul Housberg · Post by **Paul Housberg** » Sun Jan 11, 2004 3:40 pm

Marty wrote:Paul- I found kilnwash on verm board fine for slumping but not for fusing. I'd assume you'd need a more serious separator for casting as well. I think the problem is that the surface is so irregular- but maybe I didn't coat it well enough with kilnwash.

Did it stick? Breakdown? I'd like to go to 1430 with a 10 to 30 minute hold.

Jeri D · Post by **Jeri D** » Sun Jan 11, 2004 8:30 pm

Hi,
I had 1 bad experience fusing many layers of scrap on thinfire. It stuck and pulled up some of the board. I went to 1500 and held for 15 to get a complete fuse.
I recently builit a 15x15x1/2 strip tabletop on a piece and it fused fine on board but stuck to the fiberpaper. Not sure what i want to try

next, but now have to think hard about Brock's #1 choice equipment choice, the blaster.
I sure wish it would work well so I can use it for a kilnshelf. the fiberboard that I have been using on floor of kiln is shot.
Floor stymied jeri

Brock · Post by **Brock** » Sun Jan 11, 2004 8:35 pm

Marty · Post by **Marty** » Sun Jan 11, 2004 10:44 pm

Paul- I ran a test to 1525 with lots of kilnwash and it stuck.

Brock- I don't think you could get real fine detail with it but it does carve nicely.

Jeri- I don't use thinfire, just the 1/32" stuff, and I don't get those kind of failures.