nichrome wire inclusion
Moderators: Brad Walker, Tony Smith
nichrome wire inclusion
I use Nichrome high temp wire inclusions alot in my fusing.  Usually it works fine but sometimes I have trouble with a small crack occurring at the tip of the wire.  I have tried slow soaks, slow ramp down, longer anneal soak, thicker glass, everything I can think of.  I am frustrated, and wonder if others have learned about this?
			
			
									
						
										
						- 
				Stephen Richard
 - Posts: 302
 - Joined: Sun Jul 06, 2003 4:36 pm
 - Location: Glasgow, Scotland
 - Contact:
 
Re: nichrome wire inclusion
Use the thinnest you can find. It is strong after firing, unlike copper
			
			
									
						
							Steve Richard
You can view my Blog at: http://verrier-glass.blogspot.com/
			
						You can view my Blog at: http://verrier-glass.blogspot.com/
Re: nichrome wire inclusion
I use the nichrome wire in fused glass sculptures.  I usually use 17 Ga, and sometimes twist several strands together.  I have been doing this for years and it works fine 2 out of 3 times.  I just dont understand why sometimes it doesnt work.  There must be others who use wire and have experience with this.  There is a reason why it cracks sometimes and not others, I just dont know it.  The wee crack starts right at the tip of the wire.  I think it is something in the cool down process.  Any input would be of value.
			
			
									
						
										
						Re: nichrome wire inclusion
Got a picture?  Sounds like the twisted wire is fairly thick.  How close to the edge of the glass are you going?  What's your schedule?
			
			
									
						
										
						Re: nichrome wire inclusion
You may want to look at your glass under a polarizing lens and light. Sometimes the crack is just the final manifestation of stress. I don't, off the top of my head, know the thermal expansion rate of nichrome, but it could be that nichrome doesn't really "fit" your glass. If it doesn't and there's a large enough mass of wire compared to the glass, it could be stressed all along the length and only cracking where the stress exceeds a certain level. 
The problem with that is that, sometime in the future, the uncracked pieces might be subjected to uneven heating/cooling and expand/contract just enough to push the stress over into a fracture.
			
			
									
						
							The problem with that is that, sometime in the future, the uncracked pieces might be subjected to uneven heating/cooling and expand/contract just enough to push the stress over into a fracture.
Cynthia Morgan
Marketeer, Webbist, Glassist
http://www.morganica.com/bloggery
http://www.cynthiamorgan.com
"I wrote, therefore I was." (me)
			
						Marketeer, Webbist, Glassist
http://www.morganica.com/bloggery
http://www.cynthiamorgan.com
"I wrote, therefore I was." (me)
Re: nichrome wire inclusion
I use 17 gauge kanthal wire and have excellant results when the ends of each leg meet together inside the glass, like in a circle or oval.
			
			
									
						
										
						Re: nichrome wire inclusion
Gee, I use much smaller gauges, but mostly stainless steel wire.  27 and 23 gauge.  I have some nichrome that looks maybe smaller than 23.   I've always used SS, but quite a few years ago I bought the nichrome, since everyone seemed to use it.   I tried it, and it seemed so stiff and hard to work, so I put it away.   Funny, this year I pulled it out again, and it bent so easily.   I may just be crazy.  I used to bend the ends of the wire or curve them in to keep them from pulling out, but I've never had a problem with straight legs coming out -- they stick tight in the glass.