New to blasting and getting ready to purchase some equipment of my own. Doing the usual newbie blasting such as light etching, removing irid etc. I have read as much as I could find in the archives and this is what I have chosen for equipment................
Cabinet=780-TL Top load cabinet from TPTools
40# pressure pot from HF
Air Compressor=Campbell Hausfeld 7.0 horse 60 gal 140 max psi (13.5scfm@90psi/15.1scfm@40psi) oil lubricated with cast iron two cylinder pump from Lowes. Best I can afford at this point.
I would value your input before I head for the stores this weekend. Will this allow me to grow and last for awhile?
Would also be interested in link or advice for installation.
Thanks as always-such a great group of folks and to those in the calender, you have all certainly earned your place on the "Wall of Fame" in many a shop including my own. Great job!
Blasting equipment feedback
Moderators: Brad Walker, Tony Smith
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Bruce Larion
- Posts: 20
- Joined: Thu Sep 25, 2003 9:58 pm
- Location: South Carolina
- Contact:
WoW Bruce ...I think I need to go have a lie down 
My husband just brought home the exact same Canfield -Hauser from Lowes
because it had a 3 year warranty ..it's sitting in the middle of my kitchen floor
I just ordered the same cabinet from TP Tools.. only because that is the only d*nm one I can see into](./images/smilies/eusa_wall.gif "Brick wall")
and I have the H-181 Vac 35 coming. I really wanted the 951, but I would have to grow about 6" and I am at the time of my life where shrinking is a definate factor. I could stand on a box, if I could get my arms to grow.
I was waiting on the pressure pot ....do you think 40# is large enough?
there is a definate Mojo-Subliminal- Vibe going on this list
I await the answers you get ....
My husband just brought home the exact same Canfield -Hauser from Lowes
because it had a 3 year warranty ..it's sitting in the middle of my kitchen floor
I just ordered the same cabinet from TP Tools.. only because that is the only d*nm one I can see into
and I have the H-181 Vac 35 coming. I really wanted the 951, but I would have to grow about 6" and I am at the time of my life where shrinking is a definate factor. I could stand on a box, if I could get my arms to grow.
I was waiting on the pressure pot ....do you think 40# is large enough?
there is a definate Mojo-Subliminal- Vibe going on this list
I await the answers you get ....
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Nickie Jordan
- Posts: 39
- Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2003 12:16 pm
- Location: Palmer, Alaska
- Contact:
Have you any experience - either of you ?
If not, this is a great start.
First, always remember your safety garb (respirator first).
This sandblasting stuff takes some practice. This is what I do for pressures; An etch will work with 30 or so psi. A deep carve takes around 75-85 psi. You'll adjust the pressures to your liking with experience.
Having a good dust collector is a must. I have a hole in my wall to vent the exhaust tube outwards.
Have you chosen your abrasive yet ? My first experiment was with glass beads (they work for etching, cheap, but not very cost-effective). I moved on to silica sand, then right up to silican carbide. Other abrasives are available.
Don't get in a hurry. Be cautious. The air pressures and abrasives are quite hazardous.
Check your work.
You'll love this addition to your glass studio !
- Nickie
If not, this is a great start.
First, always remember your safety garb (respirator first).
This sandblasting stuff takes some practice. This is what I do for pressures; An etch will work with 30 or so psi. A deep carve takes around 75-85 psi. You'll adjust the pressures to your liking with experience.
Having a good dust collector is a must. I have a hole in my wall to vent the exhaust tube outwards.
Have you chosen your abrasive yet ? My first experiment was with glass beads (they work for etching, cheap, but not very cost-effective). I moved on to silica sand, then right up to silican carbide. Other abrasives are available.
Don't get in a hurry. Be cautious. The air pressures and abrasives are quite hazardous.
Check your work.
You'll love this addition to your glass studio !
- Nickie
In the studio where I used to work (including sandblasting commissions and teaching sandblasting) we used aliminum oxide as it was cheaper than silicon carbide yet recyclable. Practice practice at different pressures, distances and rate of hand movement so you will know how to achieve the effects you want A couple of suggestions...spend the money for a carbide nozzle. It will far outlast the ceramic ones and be cheaper (and give you more consistent results) in the long run, because the hole will stay relatively the same size for a long time. Save your old nozzles (unless they've blasted entirely through) because sometimes you may need a larger opening for certain effects and you can just pop that older, worn nozzle in there.
Lynn g
"Patriotism is not enough, I must have no hatred or bitterness towards anyone." - Dame Edith Cavell
"Patriotism is not enough, I must have no hatred or bitterness towards anyone." - Dame Edith Cavell
I bought a small table top booth and was using Jeff's small air compressor
to put the Matte finish tm on some pieces using aluminum oxide
you are right about the ceramic nozzles! All the seals blew on the table top
and I was putting too much of a load on the small compressor, so it was stop or upgrade. I have been putting in monster hours at work, too many to do any glass...so I bought tool toys
to put the Matte finish tm on some pieces using aluminum oxide
you are right about the ceramic nozzles! All the seals blew on the table top
and I was putting too much of a load on the small compressor, so it was stop or upgrade. I have been putting in monster hours at work, too many to do any glass...so I bought tool toys
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Mike Byers
- Posts: 56
- Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2003 6:57 pm
- Location: west central Indiana
- Contact:
1. A foot-controlled switch is great: definitely worth having.
2. All cabinets seem to leak, and none I've found are that comfortable to use. After a while, building your own cabinet seems to be the best option.
3. When in doubt, use a lower pressure (with a pressure pot system). I do surface etching at around 22psi, and carving is more controlable for me at around 30psi.
4. Silicon carbide is the most effective medium when you consider cost per hour of operation.
5. Water separation is important. If you can, plumb your system with steel pipe and a t-fitting or two with capped pieces of pipe that will make it easy to drain water from the plumbing. Don't forget to drain your compressor tank frequently.
6. Silicon carbide nozzles are good; you can also get more expensive (but longer lasting) boron carbide nozzles.
7. If possible, have your compressor and dust collector in a separate space from where you're working, but remember that all dust collectors leak slightly, too. Don't put the collector too close to the compressor: you don't want the compressor ingesting abrasive.
8. If possible, exhaust your dust collector to the outside.
9. Don't be afraid to experiment with different materials (stone, Corian, metal, etc.), different resists (screenwire, perforated metal, etc.) and new techniques (tack fusing etched designs, etc.).
10. Remember that etching equipment, by its very nature, is going to require maintenance. Learn everything you can about your equipment so that when something goes wrong, you'll know what the problem is and how to fix it.
You're going to have fun with this!
2. All cabinets seem to leak, and none I've found are that comfortable to use. After a while, building your own cabinet seems to be the best option.
3. When in doubt, use a lower pressure (with a pressure pot system). I do surface etching at around 22psi, and carving is more controlable for me at around 30psi.
4. Silicon carbide is the most effective medium when you consider cost per hour of operation.
5. Water separation is important. If you can, plumb your system with steel pipe and a t-fitting or two with capped pieces of pipe that will make it easy to drain water from the plumbing. Don't forget to drain your compressor tank frequently.
6. Silicon carbide nozzles are good; you can also get more expensive (but longer lasting) boron carbide nozzles.
7. If possible, have your compressor and dust collector in a separate space from where you're working, but remember that all dust collectors leak slightly, too. Don't put the collector too close to the compressor: you don't want the compressor ingesting abrasive.
8. If possible, exhaust your dust collector to the outside.
9. Don't be afraid to experiment with different materials (stone, Corian, metal, etc.), different resists (screenwire, perforated metal, etc.) and new techniques (tack fusing etched designs, etc.).
10. Remember that etching equipment, by its very nature, is going to require maintenance. Learn everything you can about your equipment so that when something goes wrong, you'll know what the problem is and how to fix it.
You're going to have fun with this!
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Steve Immerman
- Posts: 208
- Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2003 4:55 pm
- Location: Eau Claire, Wisconsin
- Contact:
too tire to get out of my own way
I took a pic of my compressor in the kitchen this morning and
yahoo is giving me gyp about sharing it
guess it will just be bees till I figure it out
there it stays till Jeff gets help taking it to the basement
I about blew out my belly button helping get it that far.
So just a cheapo Harbor Freight pressure pot will work?
yahoo is giving me gyp about sharing it
guess it will just be bees till I figure it out
there it stays till Jeff gets help taking it to the basement
I about blew out my belly button helping get it that far.
So just a cheapo Harbor Freight pressure pot will work?
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Bruce Larion
- Posts: 20
- Joined: Thu Sep 25, 2003 9:58 pm
- Location: South Carolina
- Contact:
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Larry Lunsford
- Posts: 38
- Joined: Thu May 08, 2003 4:26 pm
- Location: Littleton, CO
- Contact:
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Al McCullar
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Tue Mar 09, 2004 6:07 pm
- Location: McDonough, GA.
I started several years ago with a dry type Sears compressor and a SMALL cabinet. I have since built my own box, using the plans from tip tool as a starting point. I can accommodate pieces of any length and up to 38" wide. Having built it myself I made it the right height for me, and made my window larger that what comes with commercially built cabinets. They say you can not blast in a cabinet with a pressure pot, only a syphon system. But I do, and have no problems. I pressurize the pot at 80 psi, bit blast with pressures from 20-30 psi, depending on how deep I am carving. I recommend ALOX as a blasting medium, it cost less and last as long if not longer than silicon carbide..you should use only carbide nozzles, they last a whole lot longer than ceramic, and by all means get some type of foot control, it is a must. I got mine from Art on Glass Designs, have used it for 3 years and had no problems.....Good luck!
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Bruce Larion
- Posts: 20
- Joined: Thu Sep 25, 2003 9:58 pm
- Location: South Carolina
- Contact:
it made it down
The compressor has finally made it to the dungeon.
Jeff is starting the pipes with the pressure gauge and
drainage bends ....how many ft from the compressor
is a optimum distance for the vacuum?
Jeff is starting the pipes with the pressure gauge and
drainage bends ....how many ft from the compressor
is a optimum distance for the vacuum?
Bruce
Keep in touch with how it is going for you
I won't be able to vent my vacuum
on that side of the basement
are you getting a vacuum? or using a
shop vac with a hepa filter?
when it gets farther along I will try to tackle
yahoo picture posting again ~lol~
I won't be able to vent my vacuum
on that side of the basement
are you getting a vacuum? or using a
shop vac with a hepa filter?
when it gets farther along I will try to tackle
yahoo picture posting again ~lol~