I normally fire with the intent of only one side showing. What is I want to do a piece that sits on a table and both sides can be seen?
What if I do a tack fuse of, lets say buffalo chips and I want both sides exposed?
Any particular techniques?
Thanks, Joe
fire polish both sides
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Rick Wilton
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Re: fire polish both sides
anti-gravity machine???
The only way to get a totally smooth finish on both sides is to have both sides not touching a shelf. Basically a drop ring is your only practical way.
The only way to get a totally smooth finish on both sides is to have both sides not touching a shelf. Basically a drop ring is your only practical way.
Rick Wilton
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Bert Weiss
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Re: fire polish both sides
Drop slump, and cut the superstructure off. Or, work with a glass blower to do a rollup.
Bert
Bert Weiss Art Glass*
http://www.customartglass.com
Furniture Lighting Sculpture Tableware
Architectural Commissions
Bert Weiss Art Glass*
http://www.customartglass.com
Furniture Lighting Sculpture Tableware
Architectural Commissions
Re: fire polish both sides
I take a slightly different approach. Vibratory tumbler.
Cynthia Morgan
Marketeer, Webbist, Glassist
http://www.morganica.com/bloggery
http://www.cynthiamorgan.com
"I wrote, therefore I was." (me)
Marketeer, Webbist, Glassist
http://www.morganica.com/bloggery
http://www.cynthiamorgan.com
"I wrote, therefore I was." (me)
Re: fire polish both sides
I didn't think it was possible either but you can come realy really close at least with a ball mold.
Say you have a 12" diameter disc 1/2" thick and you're going to slump it in a ball mold. You've already fired the disc so one side is polished and the other kiln shelf side is rough. Normally people give up on the kiln shelf side and put that side down in the mold since it will never shine again, unless you do a drop or hours of cold working at the end - at least that's what you always hear.
There is a way around this, here's a great trick, I do it all the time. If you lap grind the rough side to a 220 grit (which is very quick and easy) and then put the already fire polished side facing down touching the mold and the lap grinded side facing up and fire to max temp 1190 x 90 minutes, you'll slump and fire polish all at once. Because the side facing up has been already cold worked with the 220 grit it will fire polish at a much lower temp and the already polished side will maintain almost 100% of its shine as long as the mold is very smooth. Final product, you really can't tell one side from the other - both glossy. If you think about it, it makes sense. Not sure if it would would work the same with a really sooth kiln shelf.
Jim
Say you have a 12" diameter disc 1/2" thick and you're going to slump it in a ball mold. You've already fired the disc so one side is polished and the other kiln shelf side is rough. Normally people give up on the kiln shelf side and put that side down in the mold since it will never shine again, unless you do a drop or hours of cold working at the end - at least that's what you always hear.
There is a way around this, here's a great trick, I do it all the time. If you lap grind the rough side to a 220 grit (which is very quick and easy) and then put the already fire polished side facing down touching the mold and the lap grinded side facing up and fire to max temp 1190 x 90 minutes, you'll slump and fire polish all at once. Because the side facing up has been already cold worked with the 220 grit it will fire polish at a much lower temp and the already polished side will maintain almost 100% of its shine as long as the mold is very smooth. Final product, you really can't tell one side from the other - both glossy. If you think about it, it makes sense. Not sure if it would would work the same with a really sooth kiln shelf.
Jim