Please help with question about split fiber paper!!!

[Jeri]

Hi,
I have a quick question please. I have been using the thin fire paper under my projects with no problem until today. I just made a 16" circle design to now slump into a bowl. During the firing the fiber paper split underneath and now you can see the design of the split on the piece. When I fire it again to slump it in the mold will that mark smooth out? Otherwise the piece actually came out just the way I hoped for!!
Thanks so much!

[Lisa Allen]

Jeri-

I have not had luck with the tear marks going away during the slump. But, I have refired pieces that have the tears on a new piece of thinfire up to 1400, no hold and gotten rid of them. it adds a firing, but worth it if you need the mark gone. The thinfire seems to maintain its integrity in this second firing because the glass isn't trying to draw up anymore and pull on it.

Hope this helps.

Lisa

[Jeri]

Thank you Lisa and being somewhat new at all of this if I decided to do the second firing what would be the schedule I would program in? or could I just use the preprogrammed one and when it hits 1400 would I just stop it and let it drop down naturally? Thank you again for your help!
Jeri

[Lisa Allen]

Thank you Lisa and being somewhat new at all of this if I decided to do the second firing what would be the schedule I would program in? or could I just use the preprogrammed one and when it hits 1400 would I just stop it and let it drop down naturally? Thank you again for your help!
Jeri

If it did fine in the first firing, I would just use the same schedule and stop at 1400.

Lisa

[PaulS]

Hi,
I have a quick question please. I have been using the thin fire paper under my projects with no problem until today. I just made a 16" circle design to now slump into a bowl. During the firing the fiber paper split underneath and now you can see the design of the split on the piece. When I fire it again to slump it in the mold will that mark smooth out? Otherwise the piece actually came out just the way I hoped for!!
Thanks so much!

Jeri, I binned the thinfire a while ago.

For a long time I used shelf primer then thought I'd try thinfire, as I had a sample.

It's great for anything smaller than 150mm square. Anything bigger and it splits apart and leaves a tree bark effect on the underside.

So I binned the thinfire and gone back to BE shelf primer applied with a garden sprayer.

I liked thinfire for the speed and not having to pre-fire a shelf to dry it before use.

Now I use the system where I fuse on a flat shelf with the freshly primed slumping mold underneath.

The next firing, I clean off the shelf, spray it with primer, place mold on the shelf and slump as usual.

Next firing, clean off the mold, spray with primer, place under shelf that is now used to fuse the next piece.

And just continue like that.

The new thinfire sounds good but don't know of a UK supplier (if you're in the UK).

BE shelf primer is cheaper too.


Paul

[Marty]

That preprogramme again! Blistering barnacles!

Once you've fused a piece it has different requirements. If your original consisted of lots of little pieces, you could race afap up to a soak at 1000F or so. Now you've got a solid hunk of glass that will be subject to thermal shock if you try that. Forget the preprogram and slow down. Check the schedules in the tutorial and understand what happens.

[Brian and Jenny Blanthorn]

Hi,
I have a quick question please. I have been using the thin fire paper under my projects with no problem until today. I just made a 16" circle design to now slump into a bowl. During the firing the fiber paper split underneath and now you can see the design of the split on the piece. When I fire it again to slump it in the mold will that mark smooth out? Otherwise the piece actually came out just the way I hoped for!!
Thanks so much!

Jeri, I binned the thinfire a while ago.

For a long time I used shelf primer then thought I'd try thinfire, as I had a sample.

It's great for anything smaller than 150mm square. Anything bigger and it splits apart and leaves a tree bark effect on the underside.

So I binned the thinfire and gone back to BE shelf primer applied with a garden sprayer.

I liked thinfire for the speed and not having to pre-fire a shelf to dry it before use.

Now I use the system where I fuse on a flat shelf with the freshly primed slumping mold underneath.

The next firing, I clean off the shelf, spray it with primer, place mold on the shelf and slump as usual.

Next firing, clean off the mold, spray with primer, place under shelf that is now used to fuse the next piece.

And just continue like that.

The new thinfire sounds good but don't know of a UK supplier (if you're in the UK).

BE shelf primer is cheaper too.


Paul

I naver pre fire a shelf

Warm yes

If U wana harder surface try gum arabic

But this may give U problems of hazing

So test n vent

[Phil Brown]

Hi Jeri
there was a thread on this just a few days ago at
http://www.warmglass.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=598

This is the same problem I had with 2 14" windows using Uro 96. This was 1/4" solid sheet with spiral 1/8" design on top - very simple. The paper separated in several places and balled up in hundreds of tiny little balls in other areas - a real mess. Blew a hole in one of them and trashed it (the shelf was dry underneath and been fired previously). I couldn't believe the paper was that bad so yes, I did it again on the second one, this time it didn't blow a hole in it but still separated etc.
I refired it to 1440/15 min soak and it still did NOT fully get rid of the effects of the thinfire. Perhaps I should hve gone to a higher temp or soaked longer. The indentions from the separation were minimized enough to be (just barely) acceptable for my purposes. Luckily this was a freebie for friends and they were Ok with it.
This is supposed to be handled with a new version of Thinfire - sounds like you got the old. How anyone was able to use this (old) paper is beyond me...
Lani is kindly sending a sample of the new Thinfire and I'll report the results when I have them.
Judging by the above I would say you need to go well beyond slumping temps to fully get rid of the effects or minimize them to an "acceptable level" - whatever that is!
Good luck.
Phil

[Jeri]

I honestly believe I had the older paper. I've refired the piece and the paper actually split worse than the first go round but the funny (well, don't know if I'd really say funny!) part is that since it's a circular piece with the outer 3 inches being clear with confetti/frit and the inner circle being cranberry at least this time the paper split all the way around the clear circle so it almost looks like I planned it that way! Oh well, I'm slumping it now and since it's for me this time (yes, I finally get to keep a piece) I'll live with it! I did just call Ed Hoy and ask about it and they are sending me a batch of the new paper. I read the other thread and I do believe this is the problem. Thank you everyone for the comments and help. I will also work on learning how to program the kiln myself and not always use the preprogrammed schedules!!!

[PaulS]

Thank you everyone for the comments and help. I will also work on learning how to program the kiln myself and not always use the preprogrammed schedules!!!

You're welcome.

and definately you have to learn to programme the schedules yourself, if you use Bullseye glass, use the info at http://www.bullseye-glass.com/techinfo/fire.html.

and keep records for future reference -there is a sample firing record sheet you can download from the Paragon site at http://www.paragonweb.com/ .


Paul