Has anyone used silver clay inside glass?
Is it even possible?
The COE of Silver is 191, is it possible to layer the glass on either side of the silver and give the illusion of encasement?
I am going for a concept, any ideas are welcome?
Silver Clay and Glass Molds
Moderators: Brad Walker, Tony Smith
Back when there were only two versions of silver metal clay I experimented with PMC (regular) fused inside glass, and some of my results were published in Jewelry Crafts magazine. It can work if the PMC piece is small, thin, and previously fired, although you do run the risk of silver stain on the glass. The silver clays seem to work much better fused on the outside of the glass, especially the newer versions (as I understand it) because of shorter firing times and other different qualities. I've gone on to other things, so I can't advise you on the newer versions. Try asking at http://www.pmclay.com or experiment yourself and see what you come up with!
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I fused a small (1/2" x 1/4") of fired and burnished ACS between black and clear COE 90. The silver seems to have stayed the same colour, no yellowing from what I can see, but it is hard to tell because of all the bubbles on its surface. The cleaned and fired ACS piece was textured and so the bubbles were expected. The piece has not cracked and it has been about 6 weeks.
Hope that helps some
Katy
Hope that helps some
Katy
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Silver Clay
I teach PMC. We have a product that is a sheet. You can cut it with scissors, punch it with a decorative punch, etc. After cutting to the desired shape you should fire it first. Polish it and then it can be used under your glass. If you don't want discoloration of the glass use Bullseye crystal clear on top. It will not discolor the clear top. Heavier pieces in between have always cracked on me.
You can also use PMC3 around the outside. Fire the glass first then make your PMC design around the glass and then fire. You can then burnish the PMC to the desired finish. Now I mostly make jewelry pieces so experimentation with the larger ones is always suggested.
PMC+ has to fire to 1650 for 10 minutes, PMC3 only has to fire to the minimum of 1110 for 30 minutes. Always double check the directions. There is a book by Mary Ann Devos that I highly recommend called Introduction to PMC. It will give you all you need to know about PMC and a good basis to do experimemtation.
PMC+ & 3 will shrink approximately 10% so if size is important allow for the shrinkage.
I hope this helps. I have pieces of glass and PMC on my website if you want to look. If you need further info please ask. It's early and my brain hasn't had enough cafeine yet to be really clear
http://www.luvtobead.com
You can also use PMC3 around the outside. Fire the glass first then make your PMC design around the glass and then fire. You can then burnish the PMC to the desired finish. Now I mostly make jewelry pieces so experimentation with the larger ones is always suggested.
PMC+ has to fire to 1650 for 10 minutes, PMC3 only has to fire to the minimum of 1110 for 30 minutes. Always double check the directions. There is a book by Mary Ann Devos that I highly recommend called Introduction to PMC. It will give you all you need to know about PMC and a good basis to do experimemtation.
PMC+ & 3 will shrink approximately 10% so if size is important allow for the shrinkage.
I hope this helps. I have pieces of glass and PMC on my website if you want to look. If you need further info please ask. It's early and my brain hasn't had enough cafeine yet to be really clear
http://www.luvtobead.com
Elisa Cossey
the Okie
the Okie
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silver
I've never done that. Let me think on it awhile. I've come down with a cold and I'm not thinking to straight today!
Elisa Cossey
the Okie
the Okie