Fusing with Spectrum regular baroque

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Lorelei
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Fusing with Spectrum regular baroque

Post by Lorelei »

Ok..I've been trying the baroque for a drop ring. First one I figured I'd use one full circle and use smaller pieces of the same sheet on top to make up the second thickness. It looked rather good when all put together, ie: the lines were well placed and all. Ok.. fused them together... disaster. Devitrified like crazy and didn't full fuse, showed the joins of the glass..etc. etc....

Cut to round two: Tried to cut two full circles. Failed on the second one but used the glass anyway because it all fit perfectly together. I placed all the pieces on the lower intact glass circle and just dotted Elmer's glue here and there to hold it in place. Did a full fuse with Marty's schedule, (which has always worked wonderfully before) It fused together well, no devit, BUT the lines of the pieces show up still and the tiny little dots of Elmer's glue show up! I've used a lot of glue in the past, with this same schedule, and NEVER seen this before!

Does regular Spectrum baroque do this as a rule? Did I not go hot enough? It sure SEEMED hot enough. Went to 1370 and held for 20. (in the past 1350 would give me a full fuse and I slumped at 1150. NOW I'm wondering if the original element in the kiln was burning too hot (I just replaced it after it failed on a drop ring) and that's why it burned out. If so, all my notes are pretty much useless and I have to re-learn my kiln)


Second part of question now:
I have these two circles, both double thicknesses of the baroque, one with devit on the top and not very smooth fused. What would happen if I put them together and fused them? I was thinking I would put the devit side in the middle, and lose it then. Right? Wrong? Should I just put the devit side down on the kiln? I KNOW this shouldn't be this much hassle... grrr...
"When I was a boy I was told that anybody could become President;
I'm beginning to believe it."

-- Clarence Seward Darrow (1857-1938)
Dick Ditore
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Post by Dick Ditore »

If you are using the non system 96 glass it is hit and miss. Some of the blacks devit, some don't. You can sandblast the devit off, super spray and refire. I fuse spectrum at 1450 for 10-20 minutes.

Dick
KILN-TEC
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Fusing with Spectrum regular baroque

Post by KILN-TEC »

Lorelei:
We fuse baroque and Sys96 all the time. The regular Spectrum needs an overglaze above 1300. We like Fusemaster Clear Gloss or Super Spray. You can also fire faster through the devit range (unless you are doing that already).
I have not tried a drop ring yet. I have side elements only and take the Spetrum to 1450, contour fuse in 10 minutec, 12" piece.
Have the worst time cutting circles with baroque, is their a secret trick? I'm normally quite excellent with circles.
Rich KILN-TEC
Lynne Chappell
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Post by Lynne Chappell »

I've had no problems with baroque at dropthru temps but all the regular Spectrum can have devit problems at fusing temps. If I wanted thicker baroque for a dropthru, I would cut a circle of System 96 fusing clear and put it on top of the baroque then full fuse. I used to cap all the colors this way before they started making fusing colors.

As for the one you have now: I would put the one with the devit with the devit side down and go ahead and drop it. It may not be perfect, but the only way you can fully recover is to remove all the devit (by sandblasting).
Diane
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Post by Diane »

I did a beautiful ruffled edge drop ring with the black baroque but fuse a circle of clear to it before dropping, came out great.
Diane
Jerry

Drop rings baroque

Post by Jerry »

I recently made a set of drop rings out of clay such that the inner openings were 8", 10" and 12". I set them on top of each other, smaller to larger, and drop Baroque 400 BI. I go to 1325 and get a beautiful "step" bowl. At that temp there is no devit to speak of and the irid holds nicely. Also I get a smooth flat bottom when I remember to put Bullseye thin fire on the shelf.

I've been fusing baroque of all flavors for years with no problem as long as you remember that non 96 glass will devit. Either cover it, or do a second firing with devit spray on top. I use baroque in rakings and pot melts where the temps will make things happen that you won't see happen anywhere else. Once I have a good melt or rake, I trim the edges into the shape I want and add a border. That addition usually happens around 1500-1550 and is a great time to use the devit.

Keep at it.

Jerry
Lorelei
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Post by Lorelei »

Thank you all for the input. It helps a lot.

Question though: I understand why you're fusing sys.96 clear on top and not 90, (both from Spectrum right?) but don't you have any issues with incompatability?
"When I was a boy I was told that anybody could become President;
I'm beginning to believe it."

-- Clarence Seward Darrow (1857-1938)
Tony Smith
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Post by Tony Smith »

All of Spectrum's glasses are targeted at COE 96. But depending on the color combinations in the baroque, there may be compatibility issues. All of their System 96 glasses are chemically altered to minimize devitrification. Their non-fusible glasses are not. If you cap the non-fusible glass with a clear sheet of fusible glass, you will significantly reduce any chance of devit.



Tony
The tightrope between being strange and being creative is too narrow to walk without occasionally landing on both sides..." Scott Berkun
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