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Stainless Mold Prep?
Posted: Mon Oct 13, 2003 3:16 am
by daffodildeb
Okay, tell me what I'm doing wrong. I've got a new stainless floral former, and wanted to put kiln wash on it. As I understand it, the drill is to heat it to 500 degrees and then spray on the kiln wash. Doesn't look like I expected it to, so I'm wondering what went wrong.
I'm using Hotline kiln wash in a spray bottle (same as I use for my bisque molds). I heated it up, sprayed it, and some seemed to stick and some ran off in areas. What stuck is in a very thin layer.
Is this normal for the first coat? How many coats do I need, should I have sanded the mold first, and do I need to heat between coats? Any other ideas?
Posted: Mon Oct 13, 2003 7:52 am
by Ron Coleman
The first time you apply kilnwash to a stainless mold nothing wants to stick.
Try sanding the mold to rough up the surface and then fire it in the kiln to about 1200-1300, before trying to apply the wash. Firing will burn off any oils and slightly oxidize the surface to better hold the kilnwash.
Another trick I use is heat the mold with a heatgun or blow dryer while you apply the spray. Heating in the kiln takes too much time and it cools too quickly for me.
Ron
Posted: Mon Oct 13, 2003 10:53 am
by Stephanie
Deb,
There is also a product by Hotline called Mold Armor. According to the label on the bottle, you apply a thin coat with either brush or spray onto a cold mold, fire to 1100-1292 degrees Fahrenheit to cure, and smooth by hand or with fine steel wool when cool. I remember reading that the armor is good for up to 60 firings.
Stephanie
Posted: Mon Oct 13, 2003 9:13 pm
by daffodildeb
Okay, phase 2. I sanded the floral former and fired to about 1200. Then I tried spraying again. I had more success this time--no blank spots--but the coating still seems thin to me.
Also, how many coats is "enough" for draping over this shape? Do you heat between coats?
Posted: Mon Oct 13, 2003 10:14 pm
by Ron Coleman
You shouldn't be able to see any metal through the kilnwash. If you ned to add more just reheat and spray more on. Once you get a good coat it should last for a long time except for a little touchup where the glass is in direct contact at the top.
Ron
Posted: Mon Oct 13, 2003 10:35 pm
by lindac
I'm sorry to go against conventional wisdom (oh, ok, so I do that a lot) but...
the problem with getting kilnwash to stick to stainless steel molds is that the surface is so slippery.
the kilnwash just slides off
so what I do is rough up the surface with sandpaper... moterized sandpaper on the end of an electric drill.
then I just paint the kilnwash on, wait for it to dry and smooth it with my hand.
lots easier than heating the stainless and spraying...