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What sort of marker can be used to sign my work before I fuse, the signature would be put on before the 2nd firing of a clear cap.

Thanks,
Robin

A gold pen works best between firings, although it will come out a little grainy. Or use Paradise paints. Personally, I like to use a dremel with a diamond bit and engrave my name after everything is done - it's just more subtle. Some people put a little symbol for their name, like a heart, cut from 1/4 fiber paper and put it under the piece on the last firing. (Can't put it between layers 'cause you'd never get it out!) Just some thoughts - hope it helps.

PS I suggest NOT putting a date on anything you plan on selling!

Re dating your work- I thought it was important until a gallery told me otherwise. It makes it hard to sell those good but slow-moving items a few years after you make/sign them, and your work has changed drastically. Marty

The small, conical bit that dentists used to use--my dentist told me they aren't used much these days so you can often get them from a dentist for free--work very well in a Dremel or Fordham tool. The small point makes them very controlable when signing glass.

Well, I tried a test with Pilot gold metallic paint marker on black with a clear cap, it practically vanished. What brand marker can withstand fusing temps?

Thanks,
Robin

Try the FERRO Ceramic GoldRush Pen. I haven't bought tem directly, only purchased them from a former instructor so I can't tell you where to get them. They work wll until the felt tip wears out.

Alecia

Thanks for the tip, I'll try to find one

Robin

Look in your local hobby ceramic or pottery suppliers.

Best wishes,
Tom in Texas

We want to sign/engrave our name on our clear glass work. We want it to be very small but legible. Does anyone know of a great tool for performing this? Thank you. Sheryl

cephas wrote:We want to sign/engrave our name on our clear glass work. We want it to be very small but legible. Does anyone know of a great tool for performing this? Thank you. Sheryl

A Dremel or Foredom tool with a diamond bit will work. Most stained glass stores also sell inexpensive engraving tools.

The faster the bit spins the easier it will be to control -- which is why something like "Turbo Carver" (http://www.turbocarver.com) -- which spins at 450,000 times each minute -- is ideal. It is also pricey and probably not worth it if all you are using it for is to sign work.

- Paul

I use a dremel with a sixteenth bit for signing. The bits are cheap and they last a long time.

I got a ferro pen from Fusion Headquarters (http://www.fusionheadquarters.com). They recommend firing on top or between layers to 1050-1150 degrees F.

Lynn g

Dating a piece is not a good idea - Date Codes Are. It allow you to not only authenticate a piece as your but also gives a date of creation.

day 1=a 2=b 3=c
month 1=12 2=11 3=10
year w=2001 y=2002 z=2010

V12S = 1/12/2004

You have to be consistant and it can be any combination you want.

In graphic art the prints are signed and numbered.
In sculpture, too it is customary to number
the pieced like 8/12.
I have used this for small edition slumps.

When you say that date is detrimental,
how is it with edition number?

-lauri