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Has anyone tried fusing with the new Peppermint Pink Baroque from Spectrum ?
Is it compatible like the other baroques?
I don't wanna run a test cause I'm busy.
OK, and lazy too.
Randy

I did a test on the pink baroque last night and checked it this morning and it appears to be compatible.

Randy

Randy,

I love all Spectrum Baroque and usually fire them onto Spectrum 96 clear.

When you say it's compatible, my question is compatible with what?:?:

Judy

Randy Wesner wrote:I did a test on the pink baroque last night and checked it this morning and it appears to be compatible.

Compatible with what? Also, remember that just because this piece is compatible, a different sheet may or may not be.

I haven't fused with it yet but boy, does it make pretty beads!

I fused a small piece of pink to a larger piece of clear, then checked it between two pieces of polarizing film backlit with a flashlight. No white halo surrounding the piece. Nice and clear.
Judy, do you cap the baroque with clear, or fire with the baroque on top? Sometimes the baroque devits when on top, do you use spray?

Randy

Randy,

I use all the Baroques for my fish. I fire the Baroque on top trying to disguise the stainless steel hook that I fuse between the Baroque and the clear base. I do use Super Spray on the baroques and any other non-System 96 glass.

If you watch for a sale on the "T" Spectrum glass you can get some good bargains. That's usually when I load up on the Baroques. This glass is not good if you're doing a project and in twenty years it breaks and you try to match the glass. It's their transitional glass. It's explained on Spectrum's website.

Judy

I tried making a 6" square blank for a bowl last night -- top layer clear & black baroque and bottom layer white. The piece came out full of bubbles. I thought it was because it's the 1st piece this big I have done and I didn't hold at ~1100 to let the bubbles work their way out, but when I looked at it again, the bubbles seem to follow the baroque pattern rather than being all stuck near the middle as I would expect if they just didn't have enough time to escape. My schedule was: ~10-15 deg per minute to 1100, afap to 1550, hold 10 minutes, cool to 1000, cool over 2 hours to 900, cool to room temp. I only have an infinite control on my kiln, so that was the best I could do. Do you think the problem is with the schedule or does baroque need any special handling in the kiln?

Thanks!
Michelle

mpg wrote:I tried making a 6" square blank for a bowl last night -- top layer clear & black baroque and bottom layer white. The piece came out full of bubbles. I thought it was because it's the 1st piece this big I have done and I didn't hold at ~1100 to let the bubbles work their way out, but when I looked at it again, the bubbles seem to follow the baroque pattern rather than being all stuck near the middle as I would expect if they just didn't have enough time to escape. My schedule was: ~10-15 deg per minute to 1100, afap to 1550, hold 10 minutes, cool to 1000, cool over 2 hours to 900, cool to room temp. I only have an infinite control on my kiln, so that was the best I could do. Do you think the problem is with the schedule or does baroque need any special handling in the kiln?

Thanks!
Michelle

the schedule. the bubbles followed the lines because that was where the air pockets were when the top collapsed onto the bottom.

you want to go slower 1150-1250 rather than faster. that will squeeze out the bubbles. try holding at 1150, go 1-2 deg/hr to 1250, then afap to 1500.

I'm not familiar with your kiln, but in mine I never fire Spectrum to 1500.
If you don't have needles around the edges of your glass then I guess 1500 is good for your kiln.

Many people have posted on the board regarding slowing down from around 1100 to 1300 (150dph) and that may eliminate some of your bubbles. However, I never fire directly on the kiln shelf so I don't have problems with bubbles.

Also, when annealing Spectrum you should anneal at 955 then go slowly to 750.

Judy

you want to go slower 1150-1250 rather than faster. that will squeeze out the bubbles. try holding at 1150, go 1-2 deg/hr to 1250, then afap to 1500.

Really? Is this a typo? Brock

Brock wrote:you want to go slower 1150-1250 rather than faster. that will squeeze out the bubbles. try holding at 1150, go 1-2 deg/hr to 1250, then afap to 1500.

Really? Is this a typo? Brock

yes. 1-2deg/min

charlie wrote:

Brock wrote:you want to go slower 1150-1250 rather than faster. that will squeeze out the bubbles. try holding at 1150, go 1-2 deg/hr to 1250, then afap to 1500.

Really? Is this a typo? Brock

yes. 1-2deg/min

Well, 1 - 2 degree/hour would work, too. Even Centigrade.

Brad Walker wrote:

charlie wrote:

Brock wrote:you want to go slower 1150-1250 rather than faster. that will squeeze out the bubbles. try holding at 1150, go 1-2 deg/hr to 1250, then afap to 1500.

Really? Is this a typo? Brock

yes. 1-2deg/min

Well, 1 - 2 degree/hour would work, too. Even Centigrade.

Eventually! Brock