fusing/slumping with a Skutt ceramic kiln

This is the main board for discussing general techniques, tools, and processes for fusing, slumping, and related kiln-forming activities.

Moderators: Brad Walker, Tony Smith

Post Reply
dawirch
Posts: 3
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 8:20 pm

fusing/slumping with a Skutt ceramic kiln

Post by dawirch »

I know that this has been talked about a lot on the bulletin board, but I've had trouble finding out if I can definitely use a Skutt ceramic kiln for fusing and slumping, especially the annealing part. I learned fusing/slumping/casting on large glass kilns with Digitry controllers, but alas I no longer have access to those lovely boxes. I'm considering joining a little ceramics coop to start fusing and slumping again, and I know they have a Skutt ceramic kiln, though I don't know which model. The contact person at the co-op said the controller accepts ramp programs, but she was unsure if I could program controlled cooling ramps for annealing. I am experienced with firing and annealing schedules, so does anyone have any advice on translating my Digitry experience to whatever controller is on the Skutt kiln? Also, can the Skutt kilns be trusted if I start an annealing program and leave for work, or do I have to babysit?
Stuart Clayman
Posts: 224
Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2003 12:35 pm
Location: Virginia
Contact:

Post by Stuart Clayman »

Find out what type of controller they have on it. Is it a kiln sitter, then the answer is No. If it is a digital controller then the chance is good. Do you know what model Skutt kiln they have? If it is a KM model, it has a KilnMaster Controller on it and that has a ramp hold mode which will allow you to do it.

If it is a kiln sitter you can get a wall mounted KilnMaster Controller to add to your kiln.

If you have any other questions you can contact me off line.... the1glassman@yahoo.com or else kilnrepair@yahoo.com

Stuart
Dani
Posts: 493
Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2003 3:17 pm
Contact:

Post by Dani »

Lots on this in the archives.... yes, I have a large Skutt with NO controller, a kilnsitter, pyrometer, and timer. I do all my fusing up to about twenty inches and four layers and all Reusche painting with no controller and no problems. I use overspray on everthing to avoid devit, I don't crash the kiln, I fire all three levels on medium setting and let cool overnight. Dead simple for this kind of fusing, and I've fused this way for a couple of years. Works well enough for me that I've had no compelling reason to get a controller as yet. Ceramics kilns with no controllers aren't as limiting as people think.
Bryan
Posts: 26
Joined: Wed Jan 07, 2004 4:42 pm
Location: Houston,TX

Post by Bryan »

Dani

Can you please explain your answer in more detail I am new to fusing
and like what you have said about the ceramic kiln. What is overspray and
divet and how much can put in your kiln ??? (Fusing up to 20" and 4 layers)???
BZody
Dani
Posts: 493
Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2003 3:17 pm
Contact:

Post by Dani »

There is tons in the archives about devitrification, that scummy haze that develops on glass when lingering too long at certain temps. I use Superspray on everything once during the initial hard fuse. On large pieces, I don't attempt to fuse more than two items on two shelves. One shelf usually results in a good hard fuse, the second a little harder than a tack fuse. (Depending on design, I might also split the layers into two hard fuses.) I easily fuse three stacked shelves when I fuse small items. You can see the temperature variants on each level. The first year, I was very judicious about keeping a notebook and recording everything I did, temperatures, and results. I did this on all three kilns and now have excellent records for my equipment. I can't stress the importance of this step enough! I pretty much have my system worked out to work with Orton cones and use a range from 014 to 019. The ceramic kilns cool so slowly that annealing problems don't occur... however, this is precisely when devit becomes a problem so alway, always use an overspray. There are pro and con arguments in the archives including the use of borax. Also be sure to read the tutorial that Brad has posted here or buy his book which is invaluable. Good luck, have fun, and treat that ceramics kiln with respect... it'll do some fine work for you!
Bryan
Posts: 26
Joined: Wed Jan 07, 2004 4:42 pm
Location: Houston,TX

Post by Bryan »

Dani

Thanks for the great reply. I will do some searching in the Archive..
I have read a lot of folks writings and all seem to be very helpful.
I even get a kick at some star egos that come shinning through
in the good old written word........
BZody

What type of overspray do you recommend??
Thanks
janine
Posts: 16
Joined: Fri Jan 16, 2004 7:02 pm
Location: Vancouver Island, B.C.

Buy your own Shelves

Post by janine »

Hi Brian:

I use a skutt ceramics kiln, however mine is computerized. Other than bubbles, which I have since corrected, thanks to this board, it fires glass beautifully. I have done 14 inch diameter with no problem.

I worked out of a pottery co-op for years until I had my own pottery studio set up. The biggest dilemma you might face using a co-op pottery kiln for glass are the shelves. Potters do not care much about the shape of their shelves. They are, almost without fail, pitted quite badly (not suitable for glass) and the Kiln wash might get changed once or twice a year, even in my own studio my shelves were pitted beyond use for glass.

Additionally co-ops usually make their own kiln wash and I found that the traditional potter's kiln wash did not work that well for glass. I now buy BE kiln wash.

My advice to you , is to buy your own kiln shelf and wash to use in their kiln. Hopefully a size that will work in a future kiln you might purchase.

Alternately, they may have a smallish shelf that you may be able to strip down and use the underside of, if it's in good shape, at least for your initial learning phase.

Good Luck
Janine
Bryan
Posts: 26
Joined: Wed Jan 07, 2004 4:42 pm
Location: Houston,TX

Post by Bryan »

Janine and Dani

Thanks for your help. Where can I buy overspray??
I checked a few companies listed above no luck yet.
BZody

FYI Janine have a Olympic kiln (ceramic) w/ kiln sitter
and pyrometer.
Again thanks
Dani
Posts: 493
Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2003 3:17 pm
Contact:

Post by Dani »

All the glass suppliers carry either Superspray or Spray A which is lead-bearing. I get borax at Walmart in the laundry soap department. Mix according to instructions in the archives. ( I can't stress the value of the archives enough as well as the tutorial above.) As to the pitted shelves, if they're not too bad you could try sifting a whiting bedding for a textured bottom or use the damaged shelves with the slumping mold where shelf perfection doesn't matter. I have a couple of unwashed shelves that were blems that I use to hold the molds.... keeps the nice kilnwashed fusing shelves from getting dinged by the molds. I try to make kiln shelves last as long as possible because I hate re-doing them - I have to beg my husband much to long and often before they get done.... sigh. So I pamper them any way I can. :roll:
Bryan
Posts: 26
Joined: Wed Jan 07, 2004 4:42 pm
Location: Houston,TX

Post by Bryan »

Dani

Yall are so helpful, many thanks!!!!!!
One last ??? do any of yall use that
shelf paper stuff. I used it in my fusion
class. Easy and clean stuff, is the draw back
the cost?? , and can you rake hot glass
while it is on shelf paper??
Bzody
Dani
Posts: 493
Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2003 3:17 pm
Contact:

Post by Dani »

The drawback for me was the waste.... I can use a kiln-washed shelf over dozens of times, but not so with the shelf liner. Also, the particles as it degrades.... just too much messin' to be simple. :wink:
Post Reply