WarmGlass.com

Hello dear friends,
Got another question for you
My Jen Ken kiln is 24" squarish, about 17" deep, with side elements. And of course, elements at the top.
I can not separate the conteroll over them, one switch to turn on or off.

I asked my kiln electrician to separate the controll over the elements. [1 switch for the top, another switch for the sides]. This is the one who recently changed my relays for me. From his reaction, I have the feeling that he does not know how to do it, never did it before. Being that this is an American product, I am not so happy to 'play' with it anyway.

I know that it is possible to 'cover' the side elements, in order to minimize the heat coming from them .
My dylema is with what
1.Fiber boards? What thickness?? 1\2" or 1" thick?
2.Mullite boards
3.Vermiculite boards?
How far off the elements should the boards be placed?

I'd be grateful for your imput.
Many thanks in advance,

Havi

I use several ceramic kilns, side elements only.

When I baffle the piece I'm firing I consider the line-of-sight from the elements to the edge of my glass and then put a baffle in the way. I usually use pieces of kiln shelf for my baffles. It's the radiant heat you're trying to avoid being too close to the edge. Of course the overall ramp must still be proper for the type and thickness of the glass you're firing.

Depending on the kiln, number of elements and their placement I can usually get away with a 1.5" to 2" barrier.

I've been doing it for years.

Jim

Dear Havi

Another issue to take into account if you decide one day to separate the elements, is that if you cancel the side elements and use only the top for some projects, then the top elements have to be capable of carrying, by themselves, the combined power you have with all the elements together, otherwise you'll end up with a coldish kiln.

Sorry can't explain this better until my husband arrives. He built my kiln, it is switchable, and the heat in the kiln is the same with any combination of coils ...I remember he had to calculate the coils for the top separately to achieve this.

Best regards, seachange

Thanks Jim and Seachange....
I am very grateful for your responses.
You are very lucky to have such a helpful hubby, this is really good help and encouragement.

However, in my circumstances, it seems that Jim's alternative is better for my situation. But its good to know that there is the other option, and what it involves.

Thank you both, very much.
BTW Jim, if you are using kiln shelf - then you must be using mullite, I think.

Anyway,
Many thanks,
Havi

I guess they're mullite. I look out for broken shelves at places like pottery shops, clubs, etc. Using a tile saw you can cut them into strips and other pieces that work very well as dams and baffles.

When necessary I stack them on kiln posts and/or themselves to get higher baffles. Protecting the corners of a rectangular slump takes some stacking to get the baffles up to the level of the glass in the mold.

As I recall it was Brian Blanthorn that brought this idea to the attention of the WGBB.

Jim