WarmGlass.com

@Chaim,

I don't think that technique would work for this particular need, but I had forgot about that possibility--and the thought of trying out a vinyl plotter, or even a cricut to cut some flexi-glass is intriguing. I have no idea what sorts of blades the cricut uses, but I'll check with my friend and see if I can't buy her one or two for experimentation.

Thanks for thinking outside of the box!



@Barry,

I'd been chasing down the dichro/irid angled attack on this project before I submitted this here. It may actually be the right approach. I'll take a shot at it on Saturday; thanks for alternatives to a vinyl-cut stencil for my blaster.


@all of you
Thanks, so very much!

warm regards,

Eric

And, apologies to Bob. We had gone out for dinner, and during the drive I had reallized that making you a sample was easy for me to do. I didn't read the rest of the thread when I put in my offer!

judith wrote:And, apologies to Bob. We had gone out for dinner, and during the drive I had reallized that making you a sample was easy for me to do. I didn't read the rest of the thread when I put in my offer!

Hi Judith, No apologies needed, you were only trying to help.
Bob

If you decide to go the decal paper route, I can tell you that the HP P1606dn works well. I recently purchased one specifically for a project doing sponsor awards - photographs with text on each piece. Worked quite nicely.

Eric Baker wrote:Hi Valerie,

Thanks for that topic link; I had been watching that one for tips and advice.

A funny story: I had bought Jody's book, and it was shipped to me very promptly (thanks Brad and Jody). Upon arrival at my house, my toddler got his hands on it, and carried through the house and lost it. Literally, the book disappeared.

I've searched under every bed, in every toy box, in every bookcase, and in every clothes dresser/closet. I've no idea where my copy of that book went. I remember thinking when I opened the mailer package: "Wow, this looks promising. I'm going to enjoy reading through this!" I'm sure it'll be a great read, but apparently my toddler fed it to the cats, or stuffed it somewhere completely hidden.

I can't bring myself to buy another copy, thinking that I soon as I do, the original will show up. But so far, it's a mystery! Aren't toddlers great?!

Eric, seems as though your immediate problem of acquiring a sample is solved, congratulations....as for the missing book....did your toilet plug up around the same time? Just wonderin', feral toddler+missing book.........Jen

Hi Tracy,

thanks for the reference to the printer. I suspect that's probably the direction I'll be heading for this project...



Hi Buttercup,

the funny part of the story is that my wife and I tore the house apart, and found the book stuffed down into, and buried inside of, a tub in a closet. I think my little tiger was just prepping me for later in life (read that: teenager-times), like when I'll hand him some money, and later, when I ask him where it went, he'll just shrug and it'll just be 'missing'--just like my book. Something tells me the money won't be found as easily as the book was......

Anybody need a spare kid?

You can just about list anything on ebay these days...

Eric Baker wrote:Oh yeah, my handwriting is abhorrent... truly.

I took a calligraphy class once. The teacher recommended I become a doctor, and she gave up on my penmanship ever being a 'work of art'.

Eric: Your calligraphy 'teacher' was either uninformed or lazy; calligraphy doesn't relate to penmanship at all, it's all about drawing lines and curves which become letters or symbols. There are some good self-learning calligraphy books available that will get you to the point of doing simple calligraphy in a very short time. Practicing up-side-down is a good technique so you don't compare your drawing to writing - that's one way a good forger copies signatures!

BTW - did you think of paying someone to do calligraphy for you? You may even be able to find a hospital volunteer who can do it. Have them do a simple script which you can learn and execute in the future. Simple and repeatable is always better in my mind.

Eric Baker wrote:@Chaim,

I don't think that technique would work for this particular need, but I had forgot about that possibility--and the thought of trying out a vinyl plotter, or even a cricut to cut some flexi-glass is intriguing.

The class I took for flexi-glass from a nationally-recognized instructor convinced me that the product should be used only 'as advertised.' The color saturation was decidedly weak and sharp lines were impossible.

Hi Jerry,

Thanks for those suggestions and the insight into the flexi-glass.

warm regards,

Eric

An interesting thread, I've been chasing this one for over a year trying to find a printer.

There are a few companies that offer ready made high quality ENAMEL screened waterslide decals, and that combination seems to be key in successful firing results on glass. I've found AAE Glass has the best and most consistent result when fired, they stay true black or white, but that doesn't get around the issue that I'd like to use my own graphics and lettering for my glass designs.

As I understand it, there are a handful of printers that can create these waterslide enamel decals from original vector art...anyone know who those printers might be? I found one in the Philly area, but the owner clearly wasn't interested in 50 sheet "small quantity" runs.

I have looked at decals made from both laser printer ceramic toner and screen printed enamels. The screen printed ones are far better than the laser printed ones. I think (with nothing to back it up but observation) that the laser enamels are diluted with come type of carrier.
Screen printed enamels are the way to go if you with good decals. The problem is that the designs are limited to those available for resale.

We screen print (or photopolymer etch) to get wording. The price is such that it is cost effective to make only one piece. And screens are reusable many times.
Here are three examples:

[quote="Barry Kaiser"]I have looked at decals made from both laser printer ceramic toner and screen printed enamels. The screen printed ones are far better than the laser printed ones.

Thank you for your detailed response Barry, you are spot on. You were also kind to answer me when I emailed you directly about this earlier during the year...and I'm still looking for that elusive printer. To clarify, I mean print house, as the actually printing process to create quality fusible images is time consuming,costly, and to my knowledge, there's no HP desk type printer that can pull these off.

I'm going to reach out to Delphi and see if I can connect with a product manager there for the Fuseworks line, they have some very nice basic color graphics and lettering that they offer for the retail market http://www.diamondtechglass.com/index.c ... Sid=208666 I've used these, they a great for one-off projects and work up in a jiff in a microwave kiln.

But what I'm looking for is production work decals, ones where I create the graphics and a printer then sends me my decals. Like the decals created for bar glass, mugs, etc, the raised enamel kind.

An example of what's out there is here: http://www.artfire.com/ext/shop/product ... y/earrings where the cherry blossom is a black enamel waterslide decal I've fused onto the glass. But it's someone else's art, I'm looking for the printer resource that prints the decals.

There are printers out there that will print these type of decals, but not too many and they have proven to be hard to find. I'm adding my request to this thread as it would help the initial requester for lettering as well. Enamel decals fuse crisp and are beautiful...BUT you do need to use high quality silk screened enamel decals, not the laser printer sepia ones.

I am a calligrapher and have lettered on glass for over 30 years, which brought me to the "warm glass" venue. I used to hand letter, hand cut, and sandblast all the personalization. Then came computers and not far behind came all manner of "help". To help now you can typeset names on your computer using any font, specify size and spacing, and work on a layout so much easier. This preliminary work of layout, sizing and font style would be the same whether you screen print, sandblast or use the transfers you mentioned. My clients like the sandblasting. Not quite sure why, as I could do it anyway they'd like. One thing that you can do with the recessed sandblasted ones is use a rub n buff, or enamel fill in the recessed lettering. You have many options, but I have found that if I go to an office equipment store and ask about the qualities of the printer you want they are more than happy to copy something for you to try, especially if you may purchase it later. Good luck.

Thanks KaCe that's lots of great info!

Does anyone know the names of any printing shops that actually can print custom waterslide enamel decals with these specs? http://www.delphiglass.com/decals-stenc ... mel-decals

Hi There! to the people who have successfully used the hp p1006 laser jet...did you purchase a specific toner cartridge ie a MICR one or use it as per the one it came with...I'm so confused, I just want to print decals, I have an idea that I want to creat which is keeping me awake at night . Also I have just got a second hand HP 3200 and have found a MICR Toner Cartrigde that is compatible, hopefully this works
x
Jo

I use the cartridge that comes with the p1006 hp not the micr.
Here is an example:
Bob

Bob,
Is your decal on the outer surface of the glass? Did you cover or spray the glass to coat the decal?

Geo, I never cover the decal it sits on top of the glass. You lose color intensity when you put a clear cap on it. Make sure your printer is set to the highest resolution. I let the decals dry at least over night, longer if possible. I work with system 96 glass, I go to 1380 and hold 20, kilns will vary but that is a good starting point. Not every picture works out well, you need pictures with good contrast.
Bob

When you apply a decal there is a plastic overcoat that carries the coloring, be it vitreous or mineral. So, the decal firing must be with the decal uncovered so the overcoat can burn up and disappear. Any capping, be it an overglaze or sheet of glass, would have to be done on a subsequent firing.

Interesting. Have you had any problem with uncapped decals wearing off? Also, any thoughts on using them with food serving pieces?