WarmGlass.com

Similar but different from Greg's question! I have a 2 layer fully fused and slumped 16"x 3" deep bowl (Bullseye mold and glass). I had a great finish going (slump 200/1200/20) until I saw a flaw on the rim. Yep, coldworked, sandblasted and ready to re-fire once again. I want to just remove the "white-ish frost" look on the next firepolish leaving it with a fully matte finish.

Question - can I go 150/1175/5 (I have seen a Bullseye sample at that time and temp...) for a matte finish and without placing the bowl back in the mold or will it soften too much by the slow ascent and top temp? Thoughts?
Thanks, Patty

i do a matte at 1225 for 7 minutes. leave it in the mold, or you risk it unslumping.

Since the flaw is on the rim, I would think you could re-cold work it, put it back in the mold and run your same slump program again.

psh wrote:Similar but different from Greg's question! I have a 2 layer fully fused and slumped 16"x 3" deep bowl (Bullseye mold and glass). I had a great finish going (slump 200/1200/20) until I saw a flaw on the rim. Yep, coldworked, sandblasted and ready to re-fire once again. I want to just remove the "white-ish frost" look on the next firepolish leaving it with a fully matte finish.

Question - can I go 150/1175/5 (I have seen a Bullseye sample at that time and temp...) for a matte finish and without placing the bowl back in the mold or will it soften too much by the slow ascent and top temp? Thoughts?
Thanks, Patty

Fire polishing is a function of heatwork. Heatwork is different in every kiln, and also depends on the load inside the kiln. So what works for one person might not be what works for you. Or it might...

Fire polishing requires enough heat for the glass to soften a bit, so it will slump unsupported glass.

thank you everyone for your responses - they confirmed what I was thinking. Normally I would just experiment and learn from the process unfortunately this piece is being donated to a cancer benefit and I need to have it ready by this weekend! Thank you!