WarmGlass.com

Don Burt wrote:

Lynne Chappell wrote:clip:
Sometimes I think that's why it's such a mystical color, it doesn't truly exist, it's an illusion.

The Murex Snail Protection League's going to flame you for that.

http://members.lycos.co.uk/Mollusks/kunst/haupt.html

Try overlaying 1116 (transparent turquiose) on the 1234 (striking purple) You get a wonderful blue-purple. Expensive? Yes - but worth it to get such a beautiful color.

judith

judith wrote:Try overlaying 1116 (transparent turquiose) on the 1234 (striking purple) You get a wonderful blue-purple. Expensive? Yes - but worth it to get such a beautiful color.

judith

i got a small piece of the thick shortly after it came out, yes it is a wonderfull purple, guess i need to check with my supplier to see how wonderfull their price tag is, i love purple but the one i have fires up almost black and i still would LOVE a magenta or fuschia ;P lani? how about fuschia or magenta? any chance of that coming out of the be factory in the next year or 2?
D

Ron Coleman wrote:

Don Burt wrote:

Lynne Chappell wrote:clip:
Sometimes I think that's why it's such a mystical color, it doesn't truly exist, it's an illusion.

The Murex Snail Protection League's going to flame you for that.

http://members.lycos.co.uk/Mollusks/kunst/haupt.html

OK Ron, how do you do that? I'm puzzling over the reference and you come up with the link. Got to think you have too much time on your hands.

Lynne Chappell wrote:

Ron Coleman wrote:

Don Burt wrote: The Murex Snail Protection League's going to flame you for that.

http://members.lycos.co.uk/Mollusks/kunst/haupt.html

OK Ron, how do you do that? I'm puzzling over the reference and you come up with the link. Got to think you have too much time on your hands.

My guess at Ron's time spent: <2 minutes
5 seconds to become curious about some aspect of Murex snails
15 seconds to google Murex Snails
10 seconds to pick a reference from the hits
60 seconds to read it and answer whatever question he had
15 seconds to post a reply

Probably took me three minutes to post this reply. Actually, I don't have time for this, but I make time.

Lynne Chappell wrote:

Ron Coleman wrote:

Don Burt wrote: The Murex Snail Protection League's going to flame you for that.

http://members.lycos.co.uk/Mollusks/kunst/haupt.html

OK Ron, how do you do that? I'm puzzling over the reference and you come up with the link. Got to think you have too much time on your hands.

Don's got it Lynne. In fact you don't even have to type a thing, it's all copy, click and paste.

Copy the line of text db had in his post (Murex Snail), click on Google, paste in the google search box and click the search button and then start reading. Copy the url of a good link and paste it in the message box and post to the board. Bang Zoom.

Ron

Bert Weiss wrote:It is my vague understanding that opalescence is somewhat related to devitrification. Refiring can intensify the effect. The existing crystals simply grow more.

If it is devitrified they will B 1000's of cristals

Micro cristaline

Reaheat 2 far n ittle cristalise more

Brian

Brock wrote:

Ron Coleman wrote:I've been watching colors develop in Bullseye glass and I'm trying to understand the reason. I'm familiar with the process of "striking" for red and orange opal glass and see the results often.

Is it the same process when other colors seem to develop after firing a time or two?

Example, single rolled French Vanilla, a little puny on color before firing, develops into a saturated opal after firing.

Ron

I don't really know much about this Ron, but i think the colour is in a colloidal suspension, and reheating alters it. Maybe! Brock

One way a colour is made is

The metal is in a coloid state

During reheating / reduction it disolves in2 the glass

This is known as a strikinig colour

U can have both states in the same peice of glass hence a different colour

Brian

Barbara Cashman wrote:i'm always curious why there isn't a good magenta or fuschia in the color lines of any of the fusible, and why the most intriguing ring mottles don't handle fusing well - no i've not tried them but i've been told they don't like going to full fuse but i would love to fuse a layer of ring mottles to a layer of irid or dichro....
D

I just got a sheet of BE's new striking violet (totally unrelated to shrinking violet). What an intense color..just beautiful...and so is the price tag. I ordered a sheet without asking $$$. Holy Moly!! - Barbara[/quote]

Hi Barbara

If U wanna try these weird colours

Here is a few suggestions

Keep temp low

Soak or creap up in temp

Try flux as a low temp 'glue'

Or low melt enamel

This wil assist in reducing the surface tension therby giving lower melt fuze

Avoid hot direct radiation on the glass

If U wanna play with this stuff U gotta get sneaky n Cheet

If U realy wanna know about glass colouring U gotta hang out over craftweb

Brian

Phil Hoppes wrote:Cynthia,

Ring Mottles are made by rolling the sheet glass on to a cold table as opposed to a hot table, which is the normal process. The combination of the cold table and uneven surface causes localized cooling on spots on the glass which causes the rings. This is also the reason they are not fuseable in the sense that the design dissapears when heated and then cooled evenly.

Phil

in discussions i had with kokomo, there's 2 ways to make ring mottles.

Some ring mottles are made with a chemical process and some are from the material in tabletop that the glass is being rolled on. Our catspaw mottles are made by the type of surface the glass is rolled on. The hot spots in the table shift the opal content giving lighter and darker density spots in the glass. This is not a cold table with hot spots. This is a hot table with localized ?hotter? spots. The chemical ring mottles made by other companies have a distinctive ring (often with a color shift) around each mottle where as our glass show light densities rings but does not affect the color.

he went on to state that other glass companies, like bullseye and uroboros, tend to use a chemical means to make the ring mottles.

in discussions i had with kokomo, there's 2 ways to make ring mottles.

Some ring mottles are made with a chemical process and some are from the material in tabletop that the glass is being rolled on. Our catspaw mottles are made by the type of surface the glass is rolled on. The hot spots in the table shift the opal content giving lighter and darker density spots in the glass. This is not a cold table with hot spots. This is a hot table with localized ?hotter? spots. The chemical ring mottles made by other companies have a distinctive ring (often with a color shift) around each mottle where as our glass show light densities rings but does not affect the color.

he went on to state that other glass companies, like bullseye and uroboros, tend to use a chemical means to make the ring mottles.[/quote]

so, would this mean that potentially ring mottle from be or uro COULD be fired - carefully maybe?
D

that's what he implied, but didn't state. i would suppose that the chemicals used would migrate or otherwise change in some manner at fusing temps though, so they still might go away. i suspect a very low slump temp of uro in a single layer might work. you might still get devit though, and low temps and antidevit sprays don't play well together.

i do know that when i tried kokomo ring mottles (a red/yellow combination) at fusing temps, i was left with a shelf of powder and slivers as it wasn't even compatible with itself.

Here is something I made with the new violet striker and neo-lavender.

charlie wrote:that's what he implied, but didn't state. i would suppose that the chemicals used would migrate or otherwise change in some manner at fusing temps though, so they still might go away. i suspect a very low slump temp of uro in a single layer might work. you might still get devit though, and low temps and antidevit sprays don't play well together.

i do know that when i tried kokomo ring mottles (a red/yellow combination) at fusing temps, i was left with a shelf of powder and slivers as it wasn't even compatible with itself.

Anti devit sprays will only affect the outside

If its cristalized within it will have no effect

4 those who wann play

Localised bafling / heating will have different effects on this glass

Just take care on way up n soak prior 2 aneal n aneal longer I U bafle

Brian

he went on to state that other glass companies, like bullseye and uroboros, tend to use a chemical means to make the ring mottles.[/quote]

I'm sure I have heard Bullseye say that their ring mottles are a result of a temperature treatment, and therefore disappear on reheating.