WarmGlass.com

got some 1/2" float to experiment. bert at one time said that he doesn't dam his large thick pieces and they don't change shape much.

would 2 pieces of 1/2" thick float spread much at a low fusing temp (1450), or do they have to be contained?

charlie wrote:got some 1/2" float to experiment. bert at one time said that he doesn't dam his large thick pieces and they don't change shape much.

would 2 pieces of 1/2" thick float spread much at a low fusing temp (1450), or do they have to be contained?

Theoretically, you could achieve a full fuse with no movement at all.

Same old thing, longer, hotter = more movement. Brock

Charlie

I do get spread. I just try and deal with it by calculating or whatever. You can fuse too large and waterjet cut it down to size and then cold work the edges (YUCK). I have had bad damming experiences and will avoid it.

I recommend firing to 1220, soaking for an hour, then going to 1420 for 20 - 30 minutes.

I am not concerned with disappearing the seam as I make the top piece larger and roll the edges. If you do want it to disappear, you will have to do some testing as every kiln behaves differently, or... cold work.

Don't forget the kerosene before you cut. Haste makes waste. Fire tin side down. If you are trying to make the seam go away, place the 2 cut edges in the center so they have a better shot at matching perfectly. Anything less than perfect will likely result in visibility.

i'm actually thinking of stacked, to make a 1" thick slab.

Bert,

You said a couple of interesting things....

First, about the user of waterjet cutting. I have done some past research into this and would love for you to tell me what you are doing, what equipment you use or rent or otherwise... with lots of details.

Also, kerosene use. Are you referring just to the primer for scoring?

Thanks in advance.. Cathy

Bert Weiss wrote:Charlie

I do get spread. I just try and deal with it by calculating or whatever. You can fuse too large and waterjet cut it down to size and then cold work the edges (YUCK). I have had bad damming experiences and will avoid it.

I recommend firing to 1220, soaking for an hour, then going to 1420 for 20 - 30 minutes.

I am not concerned with disappearing the seam as I make the top piece larger and roll the edges. If you do want it to disappear, you will have to do some testing as every kiln behaves differently, or... cold work.

Don't forget the kerosene before you cut. Haste makes waste. Fire tin side down. If you are trying to make the seam go away, place the 2 cut edges in the center so they have a better shot at matching perfectly. Anything less than perfect will likely result in visibility.