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Can someone tell me how spectrum fusible cherry red holds up to a full fuse, some where around 1475 for 30 min. Does it turn more of a brick color. Just trying to see if what I want.

Jason-
I've used the transparent cherry red to full fuse and I'd say it stays pretty true to cherry red. If any of red turned more of a "brick" color it would be the red opal.
-Tracy

I have not had the Spectrum red opal turn color at full fuse. It stays bright red. For example, I used it for the nose on my clown mag and it was fired to fusing twice.

G'pa Jim

Jim's probably right. I've done several pieces using the red opal and on just this last piece (a plate) the red turned more of a "brickish" color. When I compared it to the color of the previous pieces it was definitely a different shade of red. It was probably the batch of red opal glass that was the problem.
-Tracy

One of the things I've noticed with the (now discontinued) Spectrum red is that you can have two colors, one close to a cherry red and the other more of a brick color by flipping the glass over.

Tony

I just fired a blank that is S96 151 red, and it's red... I'd call it a wine red...and not toward the liver red-brown at all. In previous experience I've fired SP 171 orange, and it strikes (in my hands) to a nice marichino cherry hue. I've not used the SP96 opals.

Cliff

Thanks Tony for the insight on the two sides for the red opal. I'll keep that in mind the next time I use it.
-Tracy

Tracy, I don't know if every sheet is that way, but it happened to me yesterday and it surprised me a little.

Tony

I have had the Spectrum transparent red go opaque when taken to 1500. Ended up looking almost exactly like their opal red. That's admittedly past their recommended fuse temperature though.

On a related note, their orange strikes red even in the 1300's for me anyway. Kind of red-orange, but definitely more red than orange. Too bad because the unfired orange is nice and it leaves you with no (fired) orange at all in their color line. Wish they'd make one that strikes to something close to a real orange (hint to Spectrum if you're reading this).

Orville Redopaquer

Tony Smith wrote:Tracy, I don't know if every sheet is that way, but it happened to me yesterday and it surprised me a little.

Tony

I've fired quite a bit of red opal and haven't had any darkening at all. I guess we don't have to worry about it for long, since it's no longer made at Spectrum.

Els

I have used about 8 sq ft of the red opal now discontinued this last two or three weeks. And you have to be really careful of two things . 1) as Tony said you have to make sure all pieces are cut from the same side up. there is a major difference when it fires. One is a nice red the other an orange red. It was very disappointing on my flag when I had one stripe that was a very different color from all the rest. Now when I use the sheet I put several large x's to make sure I don't get it mixed up. The replacement glass made by Uroboros is 60-2502-96. I havent seen it but it is suppose to be the same glass. Also on the red opals do not mix sheets up. I did and the color was different when fired. On all my big scrap I know put a sticker and label it to make sure I don't mix it up when using the scrap. The 151 I have had it strike a bit darker and have found as someone said in a earlier post that the orange fired to a very nice cherry red That may be the 171 I think someone said. Tom

I'd be very interested in hearing from anyone who has used the System 96 red, orange, or yellow opals now being made by Uroboros. How do they perform? Any experiences?

Cliff

I have used the new Uro Red and Marigold, much nicer colors than the Spectrum 96, far richer and fuse to a great gloss. Picked them up at the factory last year at WGW