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Tack fusing frit (after slump)
Posted: Sat May 10, 2003 12:42 am
by Jon Wunderlich
Hi all,
I haven't done this yet but wanted some feedback before I got started. I did make a fiber blanket mold of a mask and am going to do a piece to slump into it. My question is, can I tack fuse frit (powder) to it after it's slumped if I keep it in the mold and how high can I go without distorting the first slump? This will just be some detail but I'm not sure I want to do to much before the first slump as it will be hard to tell if the eyes, nose, mouth etc., will end up where they should be.
Thanks,
Jon
Posted: Sat May 10, 2003 7:37 am
by The Hobbyist
I don't know about tack fusing AFTER the slump but I very often will tack AND slump.
Why not tack fuse BEFORE the slump?
JIm
Posted: Sat May 10, 2003 8:39 am
by Bert Weiss
The issue is mostly keeping the frit on the glass before it tacks on. Glue burns out before the glass softens so gravity is in play. The mold will support the shape. I agree with Jim to try and get the job done in one firing.
Thanks Jim & Bert
Posted: Sun May 11, 2003 12:32 pm
by Jon Wunderlich
I just wasn't sure I could make all the features end up where they should be. But I'll give it a try.
Thanks,
Jon
Posted: Sun May 11, 2003 2:55 pm
by Carol
I will sometimes do a full fuse firing to get most of the elements in place with a smooth full fused look, then do a second tack fuse to attach frit if I want it to stay textured and/or raised. Then the slump would be a third firing.
Carol
Posted: Mon May 12, 2003 8:40 am
by Peg
I tack fuse DURING the slump - I full fuse the frit first to make it 'bead up'. I get flat-bottomed beads that tack on giving a raindrop effect.
All this is Bullsye - full fuse at 836, slump at 760 (celsius). The slump is quite hot, and I'm not sure what would happen with a steep-sided slump, whether the beads would stick or roll...
This sounds interesting
Posted: Fri May 30, 2003 9:24 pm
by doleson
Peg, do you have a picture of your technique?
Thanks,
Doug
Re: This sounds interesting
Posted: Fri Jun 06, 2003 4:01 am
by Peg
doleson wrote:Peg, do you have a picture of your technique?
Thanks,
Doug
er... well, I borrowed a digital camera last night and took some snaps and set up a website.. I don't have many examples 'in stock' at the moment - but hopefully the pics give a vague impression of what I mean. The blue dish actually has bits of pre-fused rod tack-fused on, and the curved edges show the effect of slumping at a high enough temperature for a decent tack fuse to happen at the same time. Next time I think I'll full fuse, then tack fuse then slump, to minimise distortion. (The mould was about 6cm deep, 2 inches in old money). The red dish has pre-fused coarse frit tacked on.
http://uk.geocities.com/peg_luddite/glasspix.html
Posted: Sat Jun 07, 2003 12:34 pm
by Cindy next door
That's a really good idea. Sometimes I would like to know for sure that elements would be where I want them to be.
I try experiments with a tester piece that doesn't matter. That way if it doesn't work it's not a big deal. I wouldn't try it on a piece you've been working on.
I might give this one a try too. Let us know how it works out.
Cindy next door